Category: review

Expat Eateries in Adana, Part One

M's Adventures
Croma, is a farm to table place styled sort of like a French bistro.

Let’s talk best restaurants for expats in this city of no expats. I realize that not everyone wants a “bizarre food” experience all the time. Or even most of the time. If you want to stick with the familiar, then rest easy that Adana has chain places here like Starbucks, Popeyes, Little Caesars, McDonalds, but just remember that they will not have pork products. Otherwise, a translator app will help you in most places. Here are my recommendations for expat-friendly places. These places serve good food. I do not mention the many shiny places that serve bad food.

Okay, with all those caveats, let’s begin. I have been to over 90 eateries in Adana. The list is in descending order from best to worst food, sort of.

Croma’s shrimp with fresh pasta (they only do shrimp on Wednesdays).

Croma, Sayhan Apt, Cemalpaşa, 63005. Sk. 17/D, 01120 Seyhan/Adana, in the Gazipasa neighborhood. Parking is awful so take an uber (just type in the name of the restaurant in uber and it will pull it up) or walk. The food is farm to table, the waiters speak English, and the place makes their own pasta. Avoid the rice and chicken dishes. Excellent salads. Beer and wine are available as well. You will feel like you are not in Adana. So far, this is my top pick for best restaurant in Adana. I have now eaten there quite a few times and I still like it.

Vill Kitchen, Güzelyalı Mah. Uğur mumcu Blv, 81151. Sk. Enver Özkan Apt No:2 / E, 01170 Çukurova/Adana, in north Adana, has a nice vibe, excellent creamy desserts, Turkish breakfast, and other trendy items like avocado toast. Eggs are good here. Staff speak some English.

Güneşer Bakery, Güzelyalı, 81161. Sk. VELİ İŞLEK APT SİT. 5A, 01170 Çukurova/Adana, is an organic, gluten free famous, mom and daughter bakery that would not be out of place in Berkeley, California. If it was there, the line would go out the door and around the corner. Sunday Turkish breakfast requires a reservation. The mom makes all the food from the jams to the purple colored gluten free bread.

Pizzeria Povera, Turgut Özal Bulvarı Doğal Park Karşısı G4 Nest Altı, 01170 Çukurova/Adana, in north Adana, is run by a chef who ferments his pizza dough for 72 hours. He also has tiramisu but it’s best to ask him via direct message on Instagram, if there is any that day or you will be disappointed. The chef speaks English. Limited menu.

Pizzeria Regna, Kurtuluş, 64009. Sk. No:8, 01130 Seyhan/Adana, in Gazipasa, ferments their pizza dough for 48 hours. Chef speaks English. Limited menu.

Maki Uğur Mumcu, Bayram Apt, Güzelyalı, Uğur Mumcu Blv. 30/A, 01170 Çukurova/Adana, in north Adana, serves sushi, cocktails, salads, and everything in between. Staff speak English. I like the stuffed potato skins.

Maki Gazipasa, Vali Yolu Caddesi, Cemalpaşa, Ethem Ekin Sk. No:2/A, 01120 Seyhan/Adana, in Gazipasa, has excellent salads and everything else. Also sushi. Staff also speak English. I like their salads. Salad! The other Maki restaurants have more limited menus.

Sipsters, Reşatbey, 01120 Seyhan/Adana, in Gazipasa, is a healthy bar with a San Fran feel. Run by two sisters who both speak good English. Excellent French style creamy scrambled eggs. The place feels a bit hippy and the sisters also sell produce, including from their farm.

Bobo Franco, Cemalpaşa, Bahar Cd. Topaloğlu Apt No: 17/1, 01120 Seyhan/Adana, in Gazipasa, has a wide variety of dishes from pasta, steak, salads, fish carpaccio, and so on. Also has theme nights like Mexican or movie night. I don’t think their food is beyond good but it’s got a glam vibe. Even if the music is too loud. Almost no English spoken so use a translator app.

Wispy Pizza, Kurtuluş, 64003. Sk., 01010 Seyhan/Adana, in Gazipasa, on a side street from the main food drags. It is a casual place with only one table indoors. The owner speaks a bit of English and he will use an app to communicate. Good pizza in the Boston Upper Crust style. The advantage of this place is that there is lots of parking. Limited menu.

Focawich, Reşatbey, Gazipaşa Blv. Yunus Bey Apt Altı. No:9, 01120 Seyhan/Adana, in Gazipasa, is like any brand chain upmarket sandwich place in London, New York, so on, but it is not a chain — yet. Staff speak English. Limited menu.

Bark’s Burgers, Cemalpaşa, Toros Cd. Çiğdem Apt No: 6/B, 01120 Seyhan/Adana, on the famous Toros street in Gazipasa, has possibly the best burger and fries (for expats) in Adana. Fairly sure the staff speak English. Limited menu but they have beef burgers and fried chicken.

Pizza Locale, Kurtuluş Mh. Şinasi Efendi Cd. No:8A, Şinasi Efendi Cd. 8A, 01130 Seyhan/Adana, a chain outpost in Gazipasa, has thin crust pizza in three sizes, large salads, beer and wine, and English speaking staff. Brand new so very clean looking and lots of outlets for charging your phone…

Nas Kitchen, Reşatbey, Stadyum Cd Reşatbey Concept Apt D:41/C, 01120 Seyhan/Adana, (it is not located in the intersection as Google maps indicates but one block west, on the south side of Stadyum, across from a grocery store, Better to look for Elif Çiçekçilik, a florist, at Reşatbey, 62024. Sk., 01120 Seyhan/Adana), in Gazipasa, has excellent croissants. Also Turkish breakfast. Elegant bakery.

Quick China, Kurtuluş, Mithat Saraçoğlu Cd. No:3 D:3, 01130 Seyhan/Adana, in Gazipasa, is an all-round Asian restaurant for when you want Asian food. Staff speak a bit of English. Oddly, the kimchi here is the best in the city. This place looks the part with its imitation statues and red walls.

SushiCo, 1Z M1 AVM Adana, Yeni, 87071. Sk. No: 15 K Blok, 01200 Seyhan/Adana, in (front of) the M1 mall, is also an all-round Asian place. Staff speak a bit of English.

In addition to these places, there are many coffee shops and cafes that are much like places one would find in London or San Francisco. Too many to mention actually but I’ll try: Blumind, Fein, The Mia-Glamm (Glamm has multiple locations), La Patte, Proper Coffee, Mingogo, Bonn in the Garden,…

Chocolate, matcha, and classic bubble/boba tea.

Korean Cultural Center, Koreliler Cafe Kore Kültür Merkezi, Toros, 78178. Sk. NO:3 A, 01170 Çukurova/Adana, in north Adana. I include this place because one of the staff speaks excellent English (she is a English teacher) and this place has the only authentic bubble tea that I know of in Adana (Most of the bubble tea stands use juice pearls). Excellent tapioca pearls here! I have been to all the Korean restaurants in Adana and do not think much of the food served in them. They mainly serve fast food so pasta and fried things. But this place is probably one of the better places.

Muze Kebab Hestat. Yeşiloba, 46253 sok No.21, 01100 Seyhan/Adana, in west Adana (try not to be put off by the industrial neighborhood), serves Turkish food. I do not know if their staff speaks English but this is worth a visit because the decor is that of a museum. It is like eating inside a museum. The decor is all faux archeology, but the experience is real.

The interior of the Museum style restaurant.

In terms of price, most of these places are on the more expensive side for Adana. But not too pricey for an expat.

Royal’s menu is in English and in dollars. You can pay by credit card or Turkish Lira.

Finally, as an expat, you may be longing for some of the international foods that you are accustomed to such as Thai food, Indian food, Chinese American food, or the ever popular Mexican food. While there are a few places to get a semblance of Chinese American food, most of the other flavors are not here. While most menus offer curry sauce, Korean sauce, Mexican sauce, these are not what you expect. Except maybe in color?

But, there is a solution. Although you will have to leave the fancy expat part of town and go over to the “village” outside the front gate of the air force base. Over there, you will find places that grew up because of the military folk posted to Incirlik. The two places I want to mention are Royal Restaurant and Bar (as I like to say about Royal, “They will try to make you whatever you want, however you want it) and Moonlight (best fries in town). These two places have catered to English-only-speaking American service men and women for the past 30 years… so the staff speak English. The menus are in English and the prices are in dollars, although you can pay in Turkish Lira (and, of course, by credit card).

These are the places to go if you are desperate for American tasting food (like sweet and sour chicken, curry, etc. BUT with a more gringo taste), then be daring and ignore the grubby worn out decor of these two places. I repeat, they can make you what you want and how you want it, whether it be Turkish food or something else.

Royal made me a chicken curry that satisfied my craving.

End of part one about expat-friendly places.

In the future, I will also write a list of places that I recommend in Adana, even if they are not expat friendly. There might be a few from this list…

Gozleme Hot Off the Griddle

M's Adventures
I got cheese. Omelet in background.

Every culture has this type of dish and in Turkiye, it’s called, “gözleme” (gooz-le-may) is often called a Turkish crepe, it is not a crepe as the dough is different. Gözleme is made with a yeast based dough and the dough has to rise. Crepes are not made with yeast.

The small balls of dough are completely equal in size.

It’s more akin to a quesadilla (This town has all the ingredients for Tex-Mex food, but that’s a different story).

One that is almost done and one that is waiting for much more butter.

These photos are from a place called Eylul Bufe. I think my whole breakfast was around 340 Turkish Lira (about $12).

Usually this style of flatbread is done fresh. It’s best eaten when warm and fresh off the hot plate.

Lost in the Alleys of Adana

M's Adventures

One day, I set out to find a well known “pilaf” eatery in old Adana. I had read that they were often sold out so one should go early. I got there at around ten thirty in the morning. They told me, “Come in, come in” but as there was no food, I said that I would come back after they opened at 11 am.

A quiet street in the inner warrens of Old Adana.

As I needed to find something to do for a half hour, I turned down an alley… in broad daylight, I generally do not feel apprehensive. The old streets of Adana are usually empty, sometimes foul smelling, worn down, and there is always a tea “shop” to be had. Today’s alleys were much the same but in one there was a man putting something in a grinder. It looked like green powder or grass powder. He looked annoyed at me so I did not stop to ask him what he was doing.

Wood stools.

Another thing I find fascinating is the variety of small stools. Today, I saw a saddle style that I had never seen before. In general, even if there is no tea shop or cafe, there will still be some stools and flat surface in or around every place of business. There are an innumerable tea boys and men running around delivering tea. Tea is a social habit, sort of like a handshake, in Adana.

Always tea.

While I was wandering around, I suddenly noticed raw meat on display, from lungs, stomach, testes, feet, and head. The heads were being blowtorched. Not sure how those heads were going to be prepared as one can get head soup, head sandwich, head cold cuts, and roast head. So many ways and apparently the cheek, tongue, and brain are the tasty bits. Am I right? (This makes me think of a “cute” street vendor in Istanbul who has been going viral because of his looks. He isn’t all that cute… anyway, there is a shop selling sheep head here in Adana that has employed that same marketing strategy. They have hired a cute “chef” who preps the sandwiches. Since they started featuring him, the views on their social media have increased exponentially.)

Sheep’s heads. And a woman.

As I walked through the meat market, sellers were calling out, “Welcome,” but I was not interested in buying any meat. I was also trying to make sure that I didn’t slip and fall on the slick tiles. Also, I noticed that there were only men shopping and only men working. I guess everywhere, butchery is a male dominated business. But, I was also in “the Egyptian Mall” and that could also be the reason that there were not many women around.

The meat market.

On the side streets of the meat market, there were lots of shops selling everything for grilling and cooking meat from knife stores to grinding equipment stores and some that sell everything but the meat. Aside from meat, there were the usual cell phone stores, sneaker stalls, cigarette stalls, and oddly, fake money stalls…

A grilling store.

In this warren of alleys, one could easily get lost, but not really because this area is only one city block. Eventually, one pops out on a “modern Adana” street again.

A street in the old town of Adana.

Another time, I’ll talk about the pilaf eatery and the dramatic stories of love, family, and money woes from some of the staff there.

Must Try Foods of Adana

M's Adventures

Adana is known for its food. It has contenders for most foodie city in Turkiye from the likes of Gazientep, but more on that later. There are certain dishes one must try when in Adana, so let’s discuss them here.

So good, it’s named after the city — the Adana kebab (or kebap). It’s made of chopped lamb mixed with spices, bits of tomato, and fat to keep it moist. Served with roasted tomatoes and chili peppers. Usually jalapeño. One makes a sandwich as one wishes. Also on the table before the kebab, are plates of salads that you can eat on their own or put in your wrap. See the ones in the background of the liver photo below. Each place will make their own but they tend to be the same, onion, tomatoes, parsley, pickles, etc.

Adana kebab.

Liver for breakfast with raki. If you are going to have it, try it here where it will be fresh and good. The liver is tender and not strong in flavor. When part of a wrap, you can hardly taste it at all. It is normally eaten after a night out, so from 5 am on.

Liver kebab.

Fermented purple turnip juice, şalgam (“shawl-gawm”) is sour and can be served spicy. It is quiet tart so can cut through anything you are eating. Served with pickled purple turnips (that look like carrots) or other pickles. Tastes like sour pickle juice. Made with a fermentation process sort of like kombucha. But doesn’t have fizz. Just sourness.

Fermented turnip juice.

Şirdan is so special that I think that it should be considered a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. Along with the other dishes I have mentioned.

Şirdan, (“Sheer-dan”) stuffed lower sheep intestine. This is the one that is most difficult to stomach (punny!) as the smell is strong. Make sure to go to a place recommended by locals. It will taste better if you are drunk and hungry. Both men and women like this dish but it is a distinctly Adanali dish. It is a bit like haggis but is filled with only rice. The flavor of the broth and the rice is a gentle soup flavor. The texture of the sheep’s intestine is rubbery but less so at one end. Usually one removes the string and puts salt, cumin, chili spice, and lemon juice on it — before shoving it down as fast as one can. It is meant to be eaten with two hands and gobbled.

A sewn up stuffed sheep intestine.

Like in all cultures, every part of the animal is eaten. In Italy, they eat spleen sandwich and tripe. In other cultures, these parts are turned into sausages, or as Dickens called them, “bags of mystery”… or in this case, rice.

Many people will never try these dishes. There are many other things to eat that are much easier… but at least try the kebab.

Tea Always

M's Adventures
The most common shape and size of teacup.

Every meal will end in tea, or “çay” (chai). It might even start with tea, if it’s breakfast, but it will always end with tea. Turkiye is the highest consumer of tea. It is customary to offer tea — always.

You can try to say no, but you will still get it. It’s like water in the United States. I have already grown accustomed to it. I still can’t hold the cup which is HOT. But, I do like the tea. I take it with one cube of sugar.

Tea is a serious shopping item.
As is sugar…

There is an art to tea. I’ll write more about that later as I learn more. But what I have learned is not to drink it straight up. Dilute with the hot water which is always part of the tea setup. I didn’t know this and was drinking tea that was darker than American coffee…

The double pot.

Learn from my mistake… dilute!

Khavalti

M's Adventures

Khavalti, khavalit, they always have khavalti! When I had just arrived in Adana, I was planning something and a colleague kept saying this word, “khavalti” and I did not understand at all. I found it hard to figure out. She kept saying the word like I should understand her, but I didn’t.

Then, finally, I got it. Khavalti is the Turkish word for the famous Turkish breakfast. After all, I had read about this famous breakfast, and I had had it before in Istanbul many years ago.

But, now I live in Adana. And breakfast is everywhere. Some are very basic with a few olives, cucumber, tomato, plain yogurt, and cheese. Always bread and tea. It is served like brunch on Sundays. There are some places that have it any day, but the weekend seems to be big for khavalti. If you are up because you were out drinking, then you go eat liver and drink a shot of liquor. Later, at 11 or noon, you eat khavalti.

Others are more elaborate with honey, tahini on top of pomegranate syrup, jams, and eggs fried with sausage meat. Most places will have a la carte items that you can order like omelet (a fried flat piece of egg, not folded or French style), and “menemen” which is the “shakshouka” style eggs of Turkiye.

Prices range from 340 Turkish Lira on up. All the items in these photos (except for the last one which shows another style of khavalti for one person) were from one khavalti for four people (two people per khavalti) plus menemen. The total per person was 340 Lira per person. We added a tip so it was a bit more. More on tipping in another blog posting.

Most restaurants serve khavalti on Sunday mornings. The places can be fancy and they can be casual. Later, I’ll write about the best in Adana.

This was khavalti for one person at a fancier place. Cost about 600 Turkish Lira.

Turkish Towels At a Local’s Price?

M's Adventures
100 Lira per blanket

Turkiye is famous for its cotton towels. Some places sell these for 30 or more dollars or British pounds. Some are small and made for wrapping around the waist. Others are for using as blankets, beach towels, tablecloths, etc. I found a place where the small ones cost 100 Turkish Lira ($2.39) and the large ones cost 300 TL ($7.17). Should I have bargained?

200 Lira per tablecloth/beach towel/throw.
100 for these small ones.

The owners name is Serkan (There was someone else who worked there too but he seemed a bit giggly at the notion of a foreigner in the shop). Serkan spoke no English but was friendly and helpful. The store is located in old Adana city. It is not on Google maps. It is across the street from a shop called, “Demir organizasyon adana” which sells wedding stuff.

Serkan in front of the store.

I inadvertently bought quite a few things. I do not know if they take credit cards. I paid cash.

Kayaking in Adana

M's Adventures
Lovely sunset on Seyhan Dam Lake.

The Seyhan river flows through Adana and after it was dammed, a lake was created. Now, that lake is surrounded by residences, restaurants, and boating clubs. One of these is the kayak club of Adana.

We went for a sunset kayak. The place is a bit hard to find but once you know, it’s easy. The outing cost 300 Lira per person. This included the instructions, rental, lifejacket loan, and shepherding by the staff. It was late by the time we all got there, so our time was cut short. I recommend going earlier. There were changing rooms, bathrooms, and water available (for purchase).

That said, it was pleasant to see the sun set and listen to the music thumping across the water from the restaurants.

The club house.

In the middle of the lake is a small island called Love Island. I don’t know why and we were told not to go ashore.

The two young men who helped us spoke no English but we communicated via Google translate, sort of. They helped us get in the kayaks of which there were a few singles, a few doubles, and a few old school slim ones — or as they said, “you will fall” ones… our most experienced kayakers took those. They did not tip over.

Getting into the kayaks was interesting as they two young men (one was 16 and the other 18) helped people get in by stepping in sideways from the dock… then sitting down into the wet bottomed boat… I guess that the bank of the shore was too sludgy to get in from there.

The dock area.

Over all, an enjoyable activity.

The Realities of Living in Washington, DC

M's Adventures

As I do for every place I’ve lived since I started this blog, I write a “realities” article where I talk about the downsides or less than lovely things about where I live (read about Rome here). This is about living in the greater Washington,DC, Maryland, and Virginia are (the DMV).

The traffic. The commute takes over an hour.

The prices. Everything seems to be expensive.

The politics. However one feels about politics, the reality is that this is a town based on it. So it is hard to ignore.

Seven dollars with tip.

Tipping: So much tipping and on EVERYTHING. 25 percent at some places.

The size. This is a spread out city. There are pockets that are cute, but in general it’s big.

The heat: In the summer, it is brutally hot and humid here. It is a swamp, after all.

The lack of authentic Mexican food: This is not really a problem for me, but for most gringos whom I meet around the world, this is a problem.

The Great Things About Living in Washington, DC

M's Adventures

I always try to share some of the great things about living wherever I live. This is my list of great things about life in the Washington, DC, area. (I will write about some of the “realities” of life in DC).

The historical sites: There is so much history here that one can visit for free. Most of the museums are free. There is a lot of history here even if it is not as old as in Rome.

Georgetown and Old Town Alexandria: These two small towns are part of the bigger town but they are old (for America) and were some of the first towns built in this area. They both retain that old time feel.

The national parks: So many of the parks are free.

The nature: So much greenery and nature available. There are trees everywhere.

Free things: Like the concerts at the Kennedy Center. There are many free events and that is a nice thing.

Transportation: Most cities in the United States do not have good public transportation. Washington has a metro system that is a combination of the subway and buses. It works (although slowly at times). Also, with Uber, Lyft, and Empower, it’s easy to get around without your own car. With three airports serving this city, it is easy to get a flight. National Airport is on the subway system (metro) and it is quite close to the downtown. Dulles is on the metro as well.

The immigrants: This area has some decent Ethiopian, Korean, Salvadoran, and Vietnamese food thanks to the immigrants from these countries.

The Internet: Decent speed and steady (most of the time).

Delivery: One can get almost anything delivered to one’s door.

The electricity: Same thing. Steady. Most of the time.

The water: It’s potable and most of it tastes okay.

The language: English is spoken by almost everyone.

Free Shows at the Kennedy Center Millennium Stage

M's Adventures

Maybe it’s one of those things that everyone knows about, but it bears repeating. The Kennedy Center has free shows (reserve a ticket online) Wednesday through Saturday at 6 pm at their Millennium Stage. The schedule is at this link. That is the long area out in the waiting area by the giant head of John F. Kennedy.

The shows are also livestreamed.

Uniquely Profitable Donation Shopping

M's Adventures

In America, many people donate to charities. One assumes that the used clothes go to poor people somewhere. Or that the profits go somewhere to poor people.

One shop is just open about it. You can donate at the front door and then walk in and shop. They called themselves Unique — which is a clever name.

But, it’s not that cheap. However one feels about it.

What is clear is how grossly over materialistic we have become.