But order the west African food (the food is fairly meh but the west African food was not bad — the current cook is from there. I had jerk chicken and jollof rice). And take an easily embarrassed preteen with you (No preteens were harmed in writing this).
Gadsby’s Tavern is famous being one of the restaurants where the likes of George Washington ate. If you want that tourist experience, then go.
The actor who is dressed in period costume and makes his rounds speaking in “olde English” does a pretty good job of riffing in the moment (insert embarrassing comments to parents and preteen).
As Jeeves said, “It makes for light entertainment.”
As my time in Washington draws to an end, I’m reflecting on the things I’ve enjoyed about living in the United States. One of the awesome things about life in America is the American breakfast and brunch. If I was to describe America and what makes it uniquely American, I would say that it’s the breakfast. Take for example the classic American diner. A place where you can get breakfast all day, and night, long. What makes breakfast for an American? Eggs. Bacon. Sausage. Biscuits…
Where have I had the best breakfasts in the Washington, DC, area? Hard to say. Here are a few places.
Bob and Edith’s Diner: Classic old school. Maybe not great food but it’s a greasy a spoon as one can find.
Table Talk: Same thing.
Matt and Tony’s: It’s fancier but I liked that I could order a giant breaded chicken breast as a side.
Classic with pancakes, eggs, and bacon.
Sidamo: An Ethiopian coffee shop. Their breakfast sandwich tastes homemade and they decorate the plate with a side of honey covered banana.
Good Company Doughnuts: Really good for meeting up with good company. Their espresso creme doughnut is so good that one French lady I spoke with told me that it was her second day in a row eating there.
Look at the espresso creme!
Another country that has a famous breakfast is Turkiye. More on that later.
Aromatic, seductive, entrancing, spiced crumbles of ground lamb, warm like an embrace, soft like sweet nothings, strong like passion… is what you feel, smell, sense, when you bite into the flaky crunch of the thick golden samosa crust.
I miss Vik’s samosa.
Photo does not do it justice.
I liked the dosa and I liked that he has children’s dosas. I love the chutneys and sauces. I love the strong substantial mango lassi, bright yellow like a sunny memory. I liked the pani puri (small chickpea ‘bowls’ which one stuffs with more chick peas and ‘water’ if one gets the kind with lots of spicy sour ‘water’).
Dosa is a crepe like wrap. This one is ‘masala’ so filled with potatoes and spices.
Viks Chaat (‘chaat’ means ‘to lick’ as in the food is so good you will lick the plate) is a hidden gem on 4th street in Berkeley, California, serving Indian street food. It has been around since 1989. Don’t go to any imitations. Go hungry. Sit indoors or out. Eat in or take away. Tell yourself that one portion is enough.
Pani puri — pani means water. Pani puri with the spicy ‘water’.
Radical open plan living was shocking in the 1930s in Pennsylvania. This is one of the things you learn when visiting Falling Waters, the house designed by Frank Lloyd Wright. Falling Waters is a UNESCO world heritage site.
The inside living area was low, cool, and open.
Visiting Falling Waters makes for a long day trip (a 3.5 hour drive each way) from Washington, DC. Falling water is a popular site so make sure to buy tickets beforehand. The tour is about an hour. Be warned that there are many steps.
The house is built over a water fall and one can see how this was a calming retreat from the bustle of the big city.
The amenities are super. The visitors center is well designed and has a cafe, shop, bathrooms, and lots of comfy chairs.
Falling Water is so secluded that your cell phones will not work out there. The WIFI is spotty at best.
The building is being renovated.
We visited during off season which was cool and peaceful.
I was going to do a list of the 10 best Mexican restaurants in the Washington, DC, area. But, I just don’t want to. Also, I am not finding them… so here’s my list.
Cielo Rojo, Takoma Park, Maryland: High class, world class, cosmopolitan, Mexican food. Also includes a vegan menu. Really good food.
As I mentioned earlier, I went to Table Talk diner. Inside it sure has the feel of an old school diner.
I imagine that they have a waitress named Flo… with big hair…
Gloria taking orders for pancakes.
As I was saying, it’s retro inside. One can meets locals. I did. One can chat with passers through. I did not. One can eat there everyday. I met a local who does.
If you find yourself back in the area, and need to get a crab cake, then drop by Table Talk. They got them under “must try.” They even have meatloaf and liver and onions. I may have to go back to try those. Meanwhile, their ham was good!
Virginia ham, bacon, and sausage.
The place needs to be saved. I hope they stay open for years to come.
Isn’t it dangerous? That’s what I heard before I went. Yes, it’s as dangerous as other places in the neighborhood. If you decide to go, here’s what I recommend.
In Antigua.
Two nights in Antigua: Or more. It’s safe, cute, and there is lots to see and do from museums, ruins, churches, shopping, chocolate tasting, etc.
Absolute photo op place in Antigua.
Two nights in Isla de Flores: Or more. That town is too cute! Cooking classes, salsa lessons, coffee tastings, disco, delicious food, and outings! Plus, just walking, swimming, boating, and photographing…
One early morning trip to Tikal: Tikal is one of the largest Mayan ruin complexes. It’s also HOT in the jungles. The walk in to the bottom of the main ruin plaza is over a mile (2 kilometers). And out again. A total of five or six miles (10 kilometers). It’s HOT. I would recommend doing the sunrise tour where you get picked up at 2 am from Isla de Flores.
Two nights in Lake Atitlan: I did not do this but apparently it’s worth visiting.
Notice I did not mention Guatemala City. If you do spend time in the “Guate” as the locals call it, then go to the Central Market to buy cheaper souvenirs down in the lower level. The market is near the main square so you can see that as well.
The main things about Guatemala is how sweet the people are, how good the fried chicken (and food in general) is, and that not everyone else on the planet has been there for tourism. Prices are not as cheap as you would think but you can also go there on a budget (I did not). Also, everything takes a bit longer so don’t expect to see it all in two days (we tried!).
Tikal is a World Heritage Site. It was used for a Star Wars movie. It is majestic. But HOT. Here are my pros and cons of visiting Tikal.
This was used in a Star Wars movie (think ending of the movie).
The pros:
It is only a 90 minute drive from Isla de Flores. But 30 of those minutes are at the main gate while those that didn’t buy their tickets online go to the ticket office (my advice is get a coffee at the stand where the driver is getting his cup of joe).
On the way, you can see the alligator island.See monkey do.
The tourist museum and vendors are all at the entrance of the archeological park.
No one dresses up like a Maya.
There are lots of birds (peacock like birds and others).
There are howler monkeys that will spook you making you think some monster is coming to rip out your lungs…
You can still climb some of the original structures.
It’s fairly unvisited.
The main plaza.
There are bathrooms in the park. But you won’t need them as you will sweat out all the liquid in your body (or at least whatever is not blood).
Another pyramid.
The park is clean.
The guides are good. You must hire a guide (around 500-600 quetzal) for a sunrise or sunset tour, separate from your extra ticket.
More.
The cons:
Other ruins.
Too much walking on boring dirt roads wide enough for trucks. In fact, a dump truck takes stragglers out of the park at 3 pm every day. The walk in is over two kilometers (over a mile) to the rest station/toilets at the base of the main plaza (for the love of all that is right, put in a transport system! I’ll pay for it!)
The Jungle Lodge has cobble stones (why break our already shattered feet?) and costs $375 per night.
The Ceiba tree.
A sunrise tour from Isla de Flores starts at 2 am. I still recommend doing it so that you are not walking in the heat.
This is a huge site.
The sunset tour ends up with that two kilometer death march in the pitch dark.
Walking in the dark down stairs and over tree roots…
The mosquitoes leave puncture wounds that last for weeks.
A storage hole.
I can’t decide if the ticket price is a pro or a con. Things were in general more expensive than I thought they should be. But, maybe it’s a way to keep the place intact.
Another thing that may be a pro and a con — it’s not so easy to get to Tikal. An eight hour bus ride or a one hour flight from Guatemala City. Then the smaller bus. Then the walk in to the jungle. I guess it’s pro if you like excursions. It’s a con if you would like a pleasant air conditioned minivan.
To wipe some of the salt rime off your face.
I’m sorry Tikal, but I’m not coming back. You are just too hot, hot, hot for me.
Tamarind juice, water, and hibiscus (flor de jamaica) juice to replenish the five liters I lost in sweat.
In the district of Flores is an island called Isla de Flores and it is a picturesque place to visit. It is not just a stop on the way to Tikal.
A side street on Isla de Flores.
Before I went to Guatemala, friends who had lived there told me to spend the night in Flores because it’s quite a party town… well, let me sign myself for that! We went on a Saturday night and I can attest that the nightlife was booming (through the hot sticky tropical night) all the way to my air conditioned room.
In a traffic circle near the airport.
We were in Isla de Flores because we flew from Guatemala City to Isla de Flores airport, or Mundo Maya International Airport. I was surprised that the Aurora International Airport in Guatemala City had signed in Spanish, English, and Korean. But, we did see lots of Koreans even on our domestic flight (the Koreans are in Guatemala due to the textile industry).
Domestic terminal in Guatemala City.
I was entertained on the plane with the amount of advertising (see photo).
The plane to Flores is not so small.
I had arranged for us to be picked up from the airport to the hotel. It was overpriced at $20 but on the way back, we took a mototaxi for 15 Quetzal ($2). Isla de Flores even has an electric bus which is like a large blue and yellow golf cart.
The first day that we were in Isla de Flores, we were caught in a sudden rain storm. We hailed a mototaxi to go back to the hotel. When I got in and tried to shut the half door, it came off in my hand. So I held it against the side of the mototaxi while we whizzed around the island on an unintentional “windshield tour” as the rain splashed around us and on my arm, holding the door… I wish I had video of it, but it didn’t occur to me to film it until afterwards.
The mototaxis have signs listing the price glued to the side of the vehicle.
The town of Isla de Flores is on a small island and it’s possible to walk around it several times in an hour or so. The buildings are painted in many colors and there are many hotels, hostels, restaurants, cafes, and tourist shops. Clearly this place hosts many tourists during prime season.
Walking around the island was fun. I am curious about the PITZ sports bar (see photo) that has been around since 1400 BC.
Another thing we discovered in Isla de Flores was how good the food is in Guatemala. We had food from Mangos/Achiote and it was excellent. Delicious fried chicken tenders (Pollo Campero is from Guatemala).
Tourist stuff. A street going up.
We were there during low season so had a relatively quiet walk around the town. It was fun to see that there are boats and barges that ferry motorcycles and trucks back and forth to the “rich” shore of the lake (which incidentally is the second largest lake in Guatemala).
A local walking by.More locals walking.
I find the people watching the most interesting, although I do love small windy streets and alleys.
When you mention Guatemala, people tell you to visit La Antigua Guatemala (old Guatemala) or Antigua. It was the capital from 1543 through 1773. For a while it was the capital of much of the region including Guatemala, Belize, El Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, and Chiapas in Mexico. Antigua was moved several times due to uprisings and volcanic activity, and finally in 1773, it was abandoned as the capital city.
It is a 90-minute drive from Guatemala City. I recommend staying for at least two nights in Antigua (maybe like what this blog article recommends). We didn’t.
The advice was to take an Uber. Around 290 Quetzal each way (at the time of travel that was equal to $38). We were about to do that when the hotel owner recommended her driver for just another 100 quetzal. We figured that we might be better with someone we “knew” so we did. The driver came to get us on time. She spoke no English despite having studied English correspondence… I suspect that her English was okay but as we spoke Spanish with her, she made no effort in English. So, we set off. In rush hour. 90 minutes later, we arrived at the base of a hill and our driver recommended that we go up and view Antigua from the overlook.
View of the chapel with a view of the city.
The overlook is an outdoor chapel with lots of benches along the sloping hill and walkways down to a large cross. The view of Antigua with the mountainous background is a lovely place to sit and reflect. I was more into the people-watching.
When we got down to the town of Antigua, we saw construction on a large bus station and parking lot on the outskirts of the city. Our driver/guide told us that it was for Semana Santa (holy week/Easter week). We remarked that they should do it permanently and make the town pedestrian. After some cavity loosening driving around the town, I asked why were were driving around. It turned out that our driver was looking for parking. She did not know of any public parking places.
The streets are cobblestone which makes them difficult to walk on.
That was followed on by another surprise. We thought we had merely hired a driver. It turned out that we had hired a guide. As she was a guide, she tried to get us to go to the museum and the church in the center of town. We were not interested in either. Then we separated so my friend could take photos and I could sit and people watch. Now the guide didn’t know who to stay with so she ended up with my friend most of the day.
Although we were in Antigua during the cool season, the weather was still hot. Not hot like in the jungle, but still up around 89 F (31 C) in the sun. I don’t like it.
One of the cute things about Antigua is that the ice cream ‘trucks’ are miniature vehicles. The most popular ice cream seemed to be a sunset flame array of oranges and yellows. Our guide offered to treat us to ice cream but then it turned out that she forgot her cash in the car. It turned out that we were not interested in ice cream so it all worked out.
Ice cream truck at the Central Park.
While I was people watching, while sitting on a bench in the main plaza, moving to the half shaded end of a bench, I could hear the two senior gentlemen next to me talking about how they were set up with their wives in America. I didn’t listen in so I can’t tell you more than that.
Also while people watching, I saw a devilishly handsome young man, tall and bronzed, with long lush hair in a man-bun, stretching himself in the sun. He was accompanied by an equally attractive female. They had that look like straight out of a casting call — international travelers making their way around the world, last stop Thailand.
Speaking of height, I felt a bit of a giant in Guatemala as the locals are not so tall. People like to photograph the ones who wear native dress. (Did you see the lady wearing a blouse to match the flag?).
Local ladies enjoying ice cream.
In Antigua, the classic photo is of the arch, the Arco de Santa Catalina, which is was built in the 17th century as a bridge allowing the nuns to pass from the convent to the school without anyone on the street seeing them. Today, it is a highly touristy spot and it is hard to get a photo alone with the arch.
Vendors taking a break under the famous arch.
There is a large outdoor market behind La Merced church. I didn’t make it there. Maybe next time.
We got good advice. Go to the Central Market lower level to buy souvenirs at reasonable prices. Then go to Antigua and see how much money we saved. (Guatemala City is called “Guate” by the locals).
Central Market entrance.
As you may know, I love central markets. I love markets. This is my jam (as they say). I love going early before the crowds. We breakfasted at 7 am. The market was a quick Uber ride from our hotel and we were there by 8 am just as the vendors were opening up shop.
One of the tourist goods hallways.
First we looked at the various shops and did a full circuit of the lower level before returning to the ones that we liked. The vendors will friendly but not too pushy. Many of them wished for us to be their first customer of the day as it would give them good luck.
Guatemala is famous for their coffee.
I was feeling a bit dry in the throat so we had a coffee in the “comedor” which made me happy as that was the part of the market I really wanted to see (I’m much less of a shopper these days).
The market’s main dining hall.
Then we went back downstairs and haggled (they offered the deals due to it being so early in the day) before purchasing bags, shirts, and other textiles (I purchased nothing).
A typical stall at the food level.
We had no time to explore the food level of the market. Maybe next time.
