Tag: eatery

Trick or Eat

Trick or Eat

M's Adventures

Exploring local places is a bit like trick or treating. Here are some places that are a bit of a mixed bag in terms of experience but exploring them is a treat.

Ali Emre Simit Dunyasi

Honey water for the Simit.

Resatbey Simitci

Try unusual local places like these:

Cadir 01 is a yurt harking back to the steppe background of the Turks.

Arya Kebap, mostly because it’s a challenge to find it. Located on the north side of the D400, in an industrial zone. Turn off main road at the orange notary sign.

Dolmus Kafe, for the experience of talking to really local people.

A bus turned into a cafe.

Or maybe avoid these places if you find them spooky.

Of course lots of the locals are wealthy or middle class so if you want to feel like a bougie local, try going to the places on my expat list.

A Gutsy Wife

M's Adventures

Did I mention that I quit my Turkish language class? Well, I did. My classmates and the teacher wanted to get serious about grammar and homework… NO. I want to talk about food!

A Karin sheep intestine in front.

Anyway, although I am no longer taking formal classes, I have not quit learning random Turkish phrases. I learned a punny one the other day.

The four common types of intestine offered here.

Adana is famous for various dishes like the Adana kebab, but the one that is also famously from Adana is the şirdan. But this is not the only part of the sheep’s intestines that gets eaten. I learned the name of this other part when I was discussing Halloween costume plans for this year. I could go as a kebab, or a sirdan. Last year, I planned to go as a glass of ayran, the Turkish yogurt drink, but decided last minute that it was too hot to wear a costume with padding (as I had planned a cascade of cotton padding to mimic the bubbles of freshly shaken ayran). So then what to do this year? It will still be hot at the end of October — probably around 88 F (31 C) so I need something lightweight and cotton… no, not a cotton ball… as that has padding.

Back from my aside… I wanted to go as a sheep’s intestine. But the famous one is too “rude” in the British sense of rude. So maybe I could go as the round sheep intestine. It’s shaped more like a haggis. But, in Turkish it is called a “karin” which is hilarious because “karin” is also “your wife.”

Maybe I will go as a “karin” and hold an inflatable “husband” next to me…

But it also sounds like it would require stuffing. And that would be too hot.

Breakfast, Mezze, and Seafood

M's Adventures
Sunset reflected in the mezze counter at Lakerbalik.

There is a type of restaurant in Adana, a “balik” restaurant, that basically serves as a waterside place (usually) where they serve seafood, but also mezze. And breakfast. Turkish breakfast is a big deal. But Turkish breakfast can be confusing in Adana because liver kebabs are a traditional breakfast in here. (If you search for “breakfast” in google maps, you will also get results for liver… I already did that. I like eggs for breakfast.)

Back to the seafood restaurants. Most of them are along the river and lake in Adana. That does not mean that the seafood is from the river and lake. Most restaurants get their supplies from Metro, a Costco like store. The Mediterranean is about an hour from Adana so maybe the fish is from a purveyor from there? I usually order breaded shrimp. If you order the fish, they will cook and filet it for you. Sometimes the filleting is down table side.

Fish counter at Lakerbalik.

The way it works at the seafood restaurants is that you choose your mezze and your fish. The staff then bring them to your table. Some places have photos online or on a menu but I prefer to see what is in the counter. I search out the spicy yogurt dip since I like spicy food, but there is a wide variety including eggplant salad, bean dip, and many dairy based dips.

Selected fish grilled and served.

There will always be bread and usually a “green” salad which is not just green. At some places, the bread will be freshly baked or warmed pita style bread. At others, they use the cheap standard white loaf. And as in the photos, the bread is the white loaf made into toast. The bread is unlimited.

Green salad, spicy yogurt dip, cheese salad, and bread.

Many of these restaurants are elegant a bit fancy, and often expensive. If you want a less expensive but equally nice view, then choose a non-balik place. Usually a water pipe/night club type of place that also serves breakfast or brunch (kahvalti is usually from 9-2). Many of these have amazing views. The views may also be people watching and in some places everyone will get involved in a friendly way. For example if there is a birthday or marriage proposal, everyone will sing and clap along.

A view of Seyhan lake.

Whether you go for breakfast or dinner, the dress code is up to you. Some where shorts and t-shirts (most men) and some where more formal clothes. Depending on the weather, people will sit outside or the restaurant will have opened the walls to the outside. Another thing is that there will always be smoking. And tea. No meal is complete without tea or coffee.

Sometimes having coffee or tea ends with tea or coffee. I’ve gone for coffee and then been offered tea. The tea is usually stronger than the coffee. The coffee offered is Turkish coffee which is a tiny cup and not filtered (so don’t drink all the way to the dregs at the bottom). Also, if you have Turkish coffee, you might find someone who knows how to read coffee grounds and they can read your future.

Tea, or “cay” – “chai” is always available.

As for the seafood restaurants, I do not frequent them often because some of them cost me $65 per person. That is expensive for a meal in Adana. But the price of food is a whole other discussion…

Old School Eatery in Alexandria

M's Adventures
There are two dining areas and a bar.

As I mentioned earlier, I went to Table Talk diner. Inside it sure has the feel of an old school diner.

I imagine that they have a waitress named Flo… with big hair…

Gloria taking orders for pancakes.

As I was saying, it’s retro inside. One can meets locals. I did. One can chat with passers through. I did not. One can eat there everyday. I met a local who does.

If you find yourself back in the area, and need to get a crab cake, then drop by Table Talk. They got them under “must try.” They even have meatloaf and liver and onions. I may have to go back to try those. Meanwhile, their ham was good!

Virginia ham, bacon, and sausage.

The place needs to be saved. I hope they stay open for years to come.

They have a private parking lot.

DC’s Wharf is More Than Steamed Shrimp

M's Adventures

For those who visited or lived in DC back in the day, they will recall going down to Maine Avenue fish market to buy shrimp and seafood from the red roofed open air buildings sitting low down by the water. You could even get them pre-steamed with Old Bay Seasoning and ready to eat. The area was a bit run down and sketchy at night. It was a strange location in DC. But one went there for the shrimp. Or if you were eating at Philips.

Times have changed but the seafood stalls are still there. Other than that, it’s a complete make over. Now The Wharf is an entire outdoor boardwalk built for pleasure by the water. It is a new destination location in DC. If you come to DC, I recommend trying it out.

Go for the seafood, Gordon Ramsey’s sticky toffee pudding, and towers of seafood. If you are not into seafood, there are other options. Even the Irish pub is good!

Gluten-Free Eating in Rome

M's Adventures

Can a celiac eat pasta, pizza, and gelato? Is a trip to Rome even possible?

First, learn the basic phrase for without gluten — “senza glutine” (sen-za glue-tea-neh) in Italian. While there are many dishes that do not include gluten, such as rice dishes, cross contamination can be a problem so it’s a good idea to explain that you have an allergy. Celiacs is “celiachia” in Italian and the “ce” at the start of the word is pronounced as a “chay” so it’s “chay-lee-ah-chee” but you can show the restaurant this phrase from Celiac Travel which explains that you have celiacs and that you cannot eat food made with wheat or wheat products.

Sono affetto da celiachia (intolleranza al glutine), devo seguire una dieta assolutamente priva di glutine.

Qualsiasi cibo contenente farina/amido di grano (frumento), segale, orzo, avena, farro, spelta, kamut e triticale può causarmi gravi malori.

Luckily, the Italians are obsessed with gut health, so they will feel the tragedy for you, and they will understand. Now, on to the places in Rome where you can eat!

Restaurants:

Mama Eat Lab (100 percent gluten free) – They also have another restaurant called Mama Eat but it is not 100 percent gluten-free.

New Food Gluten Free – Ponte Sisto (100 percent gluten free)

Pantha Rei

La Soffitta Renovatio

Ristorante Il Tulipano Nero

Voglia Di Pizza

Ristorante Pizzeria Il Veliero

Lievito72

Sans de blé

Risotteria Melotti — it is a rice based restaurant

La Scaletta

Pub Cuccagna

Ristorante II Viaggio – gluten and dairy free.

Millennium 

Mangiafuoco Pizza & Grill

Taverna Barberini 

Bakeries:

Le Altre Farine Del Mulino

La Pasticciera

Pandalì

Celiachiamo Lab (also a shop)

Gelato:

Fatamorgana Trastevere

Grom

Fiocco di neve

Gelato G Italiano

Frigidarium

Icecream Shop La Strega Nocciola

The Italian chocolate brand even makes gluten-free chocolate

Read a really good article here. Much of this list is from that site (which includes information about AIC — gluten-free accreditation). This site also rates the places. I also looked at this site which gave a good roundup of gluten-free eats in Rome but more importantly, a list of gluten-free eateries at the airport!

Testaccio Market

M's Adventures

Mercato Testaccio (“mare-cah-toe” “tess-tah-chi-oh”) seems world famous, but I may be getting too “Rome blind” and just assume that everyone has watched 500 videos about Rome. No, you haven’t? Well, if you want, you can watch MY video, on my YouTube channel, about Testaccio Market. And then see where the rabbit hole takes you.

Testaccio market is located in the neighborhood of Testaccio, just south of historic center along the river. This location is the new location which was purpose built. It’s organized and has parking! Here is a good run down from another blog who posted this article.

One thing I really like about markets is the hustle and bustle. With pandemic distancing, it’s lacking some of that. But, it was still lovely to hear Italians talking louder than a hush. Of the markets I’ve been to, Trionfale is larger so I may like that one more. Testaccio feels a little too gentrified.

Where to Eat Seafood in Lima

M's Adventures

Recently, I got asked about suggestions for where to eat seafood in Lima.

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Eating seafood is an integral part of life in Lima. And no, it’s not all raw.

First, take the recommended fish of the day — it will be the freshest. Also, remember that salmon is not from Peru (in the highlands, they do have a lake trout which is similar). While they eat a lot of tuna here, it is more in the Japanese “Nikkei” style food, and most recently, in the rise of the Poke! Typical seafood dishes to try here are: ceviche (done in many ways but go with “el classico” — although now they do versions of ceviche with “pork rinds of seafood” = deep fried seafood) and tiradito (carpaccio of fish). The scallops are so tender that they’ll make you go weak at the knees (“conchas a la parmesana” is classic and resounding puts to bed any idea that seafood and cheese aren’t delicious together). Peruvians love soup of all kinds but I find many of them are too fiercely fishy for my palate. Most places will serve fish in various other styles including , “a lo macho” which is when the fish is served with manly red spicy seafood sauce — note: almost nothing in Peru is spicy like in Thailand — it’s just a touch of spice unless you eat one of the chili peppers).

Try some of these restaurants (and keep in mind that most cevicherias close at 5 p.m. or earlier as traditionally fish is only fresh for breakfast or lunch. I’m trying to think of when I’ve seen a Peruvian order ceviche at night). Lastly, Peruvians love franchising so don’t worry that many of these places are chains. I’ve listed the daytime places in relative order of “But, it’s RAW! And I’m willing to try it… but only one tine of my fork…” to “No AC and no ingles! Gotta talk to the local sitting next to me? Bring it on!”

“But, it’s RAW! And I’m willing to try it… but only one tine of my fork…”

El Mercado (considered the best restaurant by many) – international star chef and this place usually ranks on the “50 Best” list. Line up at 12:15 or make a reservation.

La Mar (by Gaston Acurio) – I like this place because it’s got it all. Also good lighting for photos. Go at 12:30 p.m. or 4 p.m. if you don’t want to wait.

El Segundo Muelle (a seafood chain)

El Seniorio de Sulco (old school place that old-time Limenos go to)

Francesco (very old school)

La Red – my favorite old school place – part of the legend in making the Lima food scene so great. Also, they have a good “lomo saltado” for those who don’t eat fish. The sons of the legend opened La Isolina (located in Barranco and open at night) which also has great food, including fish.

La Preferida (this is my secret place for fettucine pasta with a creamy seafood sauce)

 

“No AC and no ingles! Gotta talk to the local sitting next to me? Bring it on!”

La Picanteria – Internet famous. Good food too. One has to buy the whole fish by weight and then choose two methods of preparation. The inside of the restaurant is not scary but the location of this restaurant is in Surquillo right behind the market, so going there is probably by taxi. If you are the sort of person who visits the market (for photos and to try new fruits), then the restaurant is only two streets away (but hold your buddy’s hand when crossing the street, and look both ways).

La Leche – hidden gem in Surco and San Isidro.

Toke Pez (hole in the wall)

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If you want to eat seafood at night (most restaurants serve fish and seafood but serving ceviche at night is a sign of a modern restaurant catering to foreigners, or moving with the times since there is this thing called refrigeration):

Pescados Capitales – a chain of high-end seafood restaurants

Las Brujas de Cachiche – open late and has everything Peruvian on the menu

Cosme (also one of those secret places not on the “50 Best” lists). Not many fish dishes but they do ceviche, tiradito, and a cooked fish of the day dish.

 

Lastly, eating seafood in Lima may spoil your ability to eat seafood in other places.

M’s Adventures Top 10 Eateries in Lima

M's Adventures

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  1. El Pan de la Chola
  2. La Preferida
  3. La Mar
  4. La Isolina
  5. Cosme
  6. Osaka
  7. La Red
  8. La Mora
  9. La Segunda Muelle
  10. Frida (best newcomer)

This list may change as I get to Don Doh and other places of fame.

100 Restaurants in Lima (and Counting)

M's Adventures

To make it more useful, I’ve made my blog posting about 100 Must Eat Restaurants in Lima easier to find on my blog. This post is now bookmarked to the front of the page.

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