Turkish Yogurt

Thick, thick, thick!

Do you recall that scene from My Big Fat Greek Wedding where the father explains that everything was invented by the Greeks? Don’t mention that here in Türkiye… or rather, just use the same logic but assume that the Turks invented it.

Take for example, “Greek yogurt” — strained thick plain yogurt. It is called “süzme” if you are looking for it in the grocery store. The plain non thick yogurt is actually although fairly thick, but this stuff will not separate and you can stand a spoon up in it!

Testing a different brand.

Oh, and we should mention that yogurt is actually Turkish. The word come from the Turkish yoğurmak “to thicken or curdle” but the actual process also come from the Turkish peoples who moved from the central Asian steppes into Anatolia and Mesopotamia. The assumption is that yogurt was discovered by mistake when some milk was left in a goatskin… did you read my article about the goat of all cheeses?

The Ottomans made yogurt a big part of their cuisine and yogurt continues to dominate modern Turkish food. It is completely normal for Turks to eat yogurt as one of the sides of their every day meal (like eating ketchup, olive oil, or butter with everything). I see lunches that comprise of one container of meat or beans, one container of grain, maybe rice or bulgar, one container of yogurt, and one container with lemon, parsley, and a pepper, either spicy or not. In the dining room at work, there is always bread free for anyone to take to make their meal. This ties into cultural practice of providing bread or meals to those in need.

One of the main Turkish beverages is made from yogurt and water. Ayran is often served with a foamy head, created by running the yogurt mixture through a pipe or blender.

A traditional metal cup of ayran.

A Nutty Fairytale

I think it’s tea.

Once upon a fairytale, I had read to me stories of far away lands where boys in baggy Turkish pantaloons chased each other through markets with silk draped souk stalls, knocking over giant baskets, all while the colors of a thousand (and one) spices wafted through the hot sunny air…

Spices in drawers.

Stereotypes are hard to break. Adana is a modern city. But, I keep looking for that souk experience of my fairytales. Obviously without the humidity. And icky smells. Just colors and brightness.

Fresh sumac.

But, do you know where I find that in Adana? In the nut stores. And in the spice shops. While one can buy spices in the normal grocery store chains, it is still possible to find speciality stores with an “exotic” flavor. Often there are spices that I have never heard of or ever seen in leaf or bark form. In the nut stores, the sale of nuts is serious business often with a roaster outside (to attract custom with the aroma), but these stores also sell Turkish delight, candy, and other snacks. Mainly confectionary.

I don’t know. Potpouri?

The spice stores sell many kinds of spices but also often function as apothecaries, carrying olive oil shampoo, or baldness remedies. Some of the products are to be steeped as a tisane, or smoked, or applied as a salve.

I would like to say that these stores are located in the souks of my imagination. They are not. For that I may have to go to Izmir. Or Istanbul. Adana is too practical, I guess.

The Adana Kebab

Adana? Where is that? That is the reaction one usually gets to mentioning Adana. Although the city may not be famous, the Adana kebab (kebap here) certainly is. So what is it exactly?

It is a hand made artisanal hand minced lamb (must be from a male sheep younger than one year) elongated meat patty shaped around a metal skewer. It is grilled over an open charcoal fired grill. The Adana kebab is always grilled well done. There is a high percentage of pure white tail fat chopped into the meat mix to add juiciness and flavor. Non spicy red bell pepper can also be chopped in with the mix. The mixture is minced with a special crescent shaped cleaver, called a “zirh.” The percentage of meat to fat is 5 to 1. After the mixture is made, according to the recipe, it should be rested for a day.

There are some assumptions that the Adana kebab is spicy. It is not. Although the accompanying jalapeño chili can be. Each portion of Adana kebab is about 180 grams and it takes a master’s touch to make the meat mixture stick to the skewer so that it can be turned often while cooking. While the meat is cooking, the juices are soaked up with flat bread. This bread is served with the meat. It is fun to watch the master (“usta”) form the kebab. It takes a bit of water and a lot of skill to quickly move the hand up the skewer creating a wave of meat.

Like all kebabs, there will be the obligatory free salads (Don’t pay! They should be free!) and a grilled chili pepper and tomato. The kebab is served with flat bread, usually pide, so you can make your own delicious bites. Like most food here, you can spice or flavor the food as you like, with a sprinkle of red pepper powder, salt, or drops of lemon.

The typical drink with the Adana kebab is ayran, savory salted yogurt, or şalgam, fermented turnip. Or ice cold raki, alcohol made from grapes and flavored with aniseed.

Adana is proud and famous for the Adana kebab. Now that the Adana kebab is a designated cultural origin food, the city holds festivals of kebabs…

My informal guess is that there is a kebab shop on every block. At least one. Maybe two or four. So every day is a kebab festival!

The Special Foods of Antalya

Piyaz salad and meatball kebabs.

Of course I tried the specialties of Antalya. At first the hotel person told me to go to a place called Seven Sultans, or something like that. But I told him that I wanted to go somewhere that locals would go to, not tourists.

Just a two minute away from the mega tourism of Hadrian’s Gate, one finds local Antalya. I walked past the touristy juice bar and found, around a corner, Arabin Yeri.

The menu.

They were friendly in there even if they spoke no English and I spoke no Turkish. They conveyed to me that they only had the two top items on their menu. I managed to convey that I was dying of heat and thirst and they immediately brought me a bottle of cold water. Then I said that I only wanted a single shish kebab. They said that the portion was six kebabs of kofte (meatball) kebab. So I got a half portion.

The lamb kebabs.

I asked if they had “cag kebab” as I was told that this was the specialty. They only had the two items on their menu… More about cag kebab another time.

Arabin Yeri.

So I got the “piyaz” which is a cannelloni bean salad. It has tahini dressing, olive oil, onions, tomatoes, and hard boiled egg. And parsley. Always parsley. One is supposed to drizzle lemon juice on it and more olive oil to taste while stirring it all up. Then eat with spoon.

Look at the smoke! And that is indoors.

Korean Court Food in Antalya

Korean beef ribs.

I wrote that I would return to Antalya. I would go back for the Korean ribs and food and Kore Dimibang. Maybe it’s shallow of me, but as my friend says, “You do you, and I’ll do me.” And me is going back for those ridiculously delicious beef ribs.

Part of the menu.

On the last day I was in Antalya, I had enough of eating lamb/mutton. I found this newly opened Korean restaurant. The beef ribs are marinated for 72 hours so one has to order ahead. But lucky for me, they had some already marinated. I had one bite and ordered a second portion to go. I almost missed my flight…

Cold rice noodles with spicy sauce.

The cool noodle dish was also perfection on a sizzling hot day. The cool slippery noodles and the spicy sauce were refreshing together. The drink of the day was a tomato and basil spritzer. No alcohol. The tomatoes were peeled and sweetened so they tasted almost like jujubes. To Koreans, the tomato is a fruit (it is) so they treat it like a fruit in drinks like this one.

Tomato and basil spritzer.

Now, why would this Korean couple open a Korean place in Antalya. Through their staff, who speaks Turkish, Korean, and English, I found out that it is because this couple honeymooned in Turkey many years ago and had this dream of opening an authentic Korean palace cuisine inspired place. I wish them good luck. I do not know how they will survive with adaption their recipes even more. Note the grilled pepper on the ribs… that is very Turkish. The chef even makes his own noodles. I didn’t have the heart to tell him that Turks like their pasta soft… not al dente… so they might appreciate the chew on his hand crafted noodles.

Open kitchen with hand made noodles.

But, the name of the restaurant and the flavors were Korean. The name is taken from the famous Korean cookbook from 400 years ago. This harks back to my favorite place in Dhaka.

Where the names comes from.

I told them that I wished they were in Adana and they said that if they had success, then maybe they would be some day. Sigh. One can hope.

Kore Dimibang is on a one way street near the coast in Antalya.

The Turkish Sunshine Coast

The famous Roman Hadrian’s gate with a bit of Roman road.

If you can’t afford the French Riviera, why not try the Turkish Turquoise Coast? If you imagine all the sun, beaches, and ancient sites of Greece, but in Turkish.

The sunshine coast of Turkiye.

For many years, a Turkish holiday was cheaper but these days I am told it is cheaper in Greece.

Such pretty streets.

There are many charter flights to the major airports in this area. Many northern Europeans seek vitamin D vacations for their health.

I went to Antalya. What a lovely city. As I mentioned, I am done with tourism, but then again, I have to do something between eating… and sleeping…

Cool bazaar in an old historic building.

If it is possible, then Antalya has it all. Even beaches. But in the town, it has a great “exotic” holiday where one sits and sips aperol spritzes by the pool after a morning of wandering the bazaar and shopping for oriental rugs..

The Ottoman style of building is visible if you look up.

Antalya has ruins too. It is old. More than 2,000 years old. The city was founded by a king Attalus of Pergamon in 130 BCE. Antalya was the largest port city in the area back then and it still is. It seems like everyone has been here, even St. Paul on his way to Antioch. And since then, Greeks, Seluks, Ottomans, and so many others. It seems that once upon a time not so recently, there were many Russian speaking tourists because there are many signs in Russian.

The rug shops look so enticing.

There are so many instagrammable pedestrian streets and so many places to “be on holiday” that one could spend an entire week just in the old town. They even have public toilets (1 Euro/40 Turkish Lira), although in the heat of the summer, I assume one sweats most water out of the body.

The downside is that in the summer, it is very very hot. Like 110 F/43 C. It is hard to describe how hot that is, but it is too hot to think clearly. Some of us find out that we have sweat glands in the puffy bits under our eyes… even in the shade.

An inviting looking shop.

Antalya is a place I would visit again.

Escape to the Black Sea

Trabzon has lots of pedestrian streets.

As the temperature started getting too hot for middle of the day outdoor activities (and frankly even too hot in the morning), I decided that I would do what the Turks did in the old days before air conditioning. They went to the Black Sea.

Giant bread larger than your head.

I went to Trabzon. For the respite from the 94-degree heat in Adana. In Trabzon, it was 84 degrees but humid. I still sweated. But Trabzon was an interesting diversion. The airport is seven minutes from downtown which they call Meydan (in Adana, most use the word, “merkez” for the center of town). There are many pedestrian streets in Trabzon, both in an area that feels like Switzerland or Italy, and then in an area that feels a bit more like Amman or Adana with covered cloth criss crossing the narrow alleys and older streets leading to Turkish baths or a mosque. Trabzon is now a tourist destination for middle easterners looking to escape the heat (84 is downright winter compared to 120) and many stores and restaurants have writing in Arabic. At one place I went to, the waiter was from Saudi Arabia and had been hired for his Arabic and English speaking skills.

Lots of metal containers for sale.

As I mentioned, I am done with touristy things unless it is food related. In Trabzon, the food specialties are a cheese cornmeal fondue type dish, gigantic bread larger than your head, a black cabbage soup, and sardines.

The melted cheese dish is called, “kuymak” and is melted cheese mixed with cornmeal. You use bread to dip into it. Very hardy food. It is nice if you can get a really good “pull” on your cheese but I went to a place where the cook apologized because she had not achieved that on my serving.

The gigantic bread is massive with the largest size weighing two kilograms (4.4 lbs). It is sourdough. The bakeries where they sell the bread can be hard to find as they seem to be all in one area. But, they sell the bread at the airport so no fear, one can take one with you last minute.

Black cabbage soup which is really kale pottage.

The soup is actually not a soup. So I was told. Apparently, one is supposed to use the cornbread as an additive and then the soup becomes a pottage or stew. This dish reminded me of the south in the USA.

I did not have any sardines but I did look for black tea as Trabzon is in tea growing country.

Overall, I felt like Trabzon was built for shopping.

It is a hilly town.

The Soul’s Ultimate Goal is to Return to the Divine

Spectacular.

One day in December, I was invited to the union celebration of Rumi. In Konya. I thought this was a marriage celebration, but in fact, it’s the union of Rumi with God — the celebration of Rumi’s death.

Other than a few quotes and knowing that Rumi was famous, I didn’t know much before that weekend.

Rumi, or Mevlana as he is often called in Turkish, was a Sufi mystic and poet, born in 1207 in the Persian empire. Fleeing the Mongol hordes, he eventually settle in Konya in what was the Byzantine Empire, or Easter Roman Empire. He was called “the Roman” or “Rumi” and that is what he is known as in English. There is so much to know about Rumi but I won’t go into it here.

Rumi said that the soul’s ultimate goal is to return to the divine through unconditional love, mindfulness, and the dissolution of ego. Down through the centuries, Rumi has become famous for his poetry. Most people have heard of the whirling dervishes and many have seen them “perform” but it’s more than that. Each rotation is a delicate prayer sent heavenward. The whirling dervishes were created by Rumi’s sons.

Personal.

The cultural center in Konya makes it easy to visit and appreciate the poetry and philosophy of Rumi, both for believers and non-believers. Every night, there is a whirling dervish performance at 7 pm. But, in December, there are special prayer sessions at 8 pm. These are hard to get tickets. It must be planned years in advance. For some reason, I thought it might be a solemn experience. It was a spiritual one. But also a very human one. All around me were people live streaming the songs and prayers via their telephones, often back to a loved one who was too sickly to make the event in person. The center also had lots of stalls where one could buy inexpensive crafts, Turkish delight, tea, and souvenirs.

Mevlani’s tomb.

Visiting the mausoleum of Rumi and his family was a quiet experience. There are many items on display so the place is a bit like a museum. But, there are also people there who are praying so it’s a bit like a mosque. One has to put on shoe covers, and women can, if they want, cover their hair. Scarves are available.

Loaner scarves.

Konya is a conservative city but during Rumi tourism time in December, it’s accommodating for foreigners. But the city gets crowded so plan ahead.

The Realities of Life in Adana

So I wrote about the great things about living in Adana. Now, here are the things that are not so great.

The hot summers: It gets up to 110 F (44 C) almost every day for a few weeks and the rest of the three or so months (mid-June through mid-September) the temperature will be above 90 F (32 C) during the day for months on end. This heat is not too sticky but it’s not completely dry and you still sweat. A lot. There is one good thing about this heat and that is that there are minimal outdoor activities or anything outdoors during this time. And there is lots of air conditioning.

The smoking. They smoke. A lot. Even inside restaurants.

The traffic. Yes, it’s bad. In the city. The roads are in bad condition. Not everyone follows the rules. Is the traffic worse than Dhaka? No.

Chaos but no animals in the streets.

The flies — well that ONE fly that goes straight for my mouth when I step outdoors. Or buzzes around our food at the breakfast places. Ugh. Usually it is not a big fly. But after I bought the electric fly swatter, life changed. Now I just have to figure out a way to attach the fly swatter to my face…

The lack of international items other than Japanese sushi rolls. No real Indian food. None. There is pasta with curry or rice with curry but it’s nothing like curry.

The language. It’s hard.

Other parts of Turkiye look down on this city. Many treat it like the ugly step child… It seems like lots of people come from Adana but have left.

But, even with all these negative things about Adana, I like this city. Maybe because it’s the underdog.

Getting to Know the Goat of the Goat Cheeses

A “tulum” cheese waiting for purchase.

I like to sit in the front seat of the taxi so I can enjoy the sights out the window. Sometimes I see things that surprise me. One day, I saw a goat torso waving at me… I had to stop and take photos. It’s cheese made inside a goat. It is the goat of goat cheese. Some might even say the G.O.A.T., greatest of all time, of goat’s cheese.

A “tulum” cheese that has been cut into.

This cheese is called “tulum” or “goatskin/sheepskin” cheese. There are local varieties with some being placed in brine after cutting, akin to Greek feta. The cheese is aged for three to six months inside the skin.

The cheese is fairly strong in flavor but not as much as one would think.

The Origins of Swedish Meatballs

Turkish meatballs are usually this shape although they can also be round.

I see the köfte (the Turkish meatball) everywhere in modern-day Turkish cooking. Never once have I thought how Swedish it seemed. It is surprising to think of it having a connection to Sweden. But, recently, I learned the origins of the Swedish meatball (köttbullar). Apparently, a Swedish King brought back the meatball from his travels to the Ottoman Empire.

In 1708, King Charles XII of Sweden decided to invade Russia. After a military defeat in 1709, he fled to the Ottoman Empire. The Swedish king went into exile for five days… but stayed for as a guest of the Ottoman Empire for five years. The Swedish king was at the Ottoman court for so long that the Ottoman treasury (who funded him) gave him the nickname, “registered immovable property.”

When King Charles XII returned to Swedish, he and his troops had acquired a taste for the Ottoman flavors ofmeatballs, stuffed cabbage, coffee, and sherbet. These foods entered the Swedish cuisine. The Swedish meatball was adapted to meet local tastes, including a creamy gravy, and lingonberry jelly. The first printed recipe for Swedish meatballs was in the 1755 cookbook by Swedish chef Casja Warg. As for the king, in 1718 when he tried to invade Denmark, again, he was fatally shot in the head.

Ikea in Turkiye sells the Swedish meatballs as a sandwich.

With the rise of Ikea, Swedish meatballs have become an internationally known dish. There is an Ikea store in Adana, out at the M1 mall, and they sell Swedish meatballs. You can even eat them at the cafe in the store. They are all beef as this is Adana.

In the freezer section at Ikea in Adana.

I wonder if the Turks enjoying the Swedish meatballs at Ikea think about the Turkish origins of their Swedish meatballs.

The Good Things About Life in Adana

As I have done for all the places I’ve lived these past 15 years, I write about the pros and cons. This is the good stuff about living in Adana as a foreigner.

It’s a chill place even though the weather is hot in the summer. People are fairly relaxed here about dress code, lifestyle, smoking, drinking, etc. Live and let live. Cover your hair if you want. Wear shorts if you want. Hijabs next to mini skirts.

There are lots of coffee shops open late into the evening so that one can go out without going to a club.

Cups for sale.

There are thousands of restaurants in all price ranges. Every place will serve Turkish breakfast (kahvalti). Just ask.

A local eatery.
A fancier restaurant.

The locals are friendly. Everyone has a phone so they can use a translator app.

There are no tourists. I mentioned that already in another article.

The great things about living in Adana are that it’s a vibrant city full of people going about their lives. Food is fresh and good. People are friendly. Taxis are cheap.