Visit Lovely Antigua In the Off Season

The main plaza in Antigua.

When you mention Guatemala, people tell you to visit La Antigua Guatemala (old Guatemala) or Antigua. It was the capital from 1543 through 1773. For a while it was the capital of much of the region including Guatemala, BelizeEl SalvadorHondurasNicaragua, Costa Rica, and Chiapas in Mexico. Antigua was moved several times due to uprisings and volcanic activity, and finally in 1773, it was abandoned as the capital city.

It is a 90-minute drive from Guatemala City. I recommend staying for at least two nights in Antigua (maybe like what this blog article recommends). We didn’t.

The advice was to take an Uber. Around 290 Quetzal each way (at the time of travel that was equal to $38). We were about to do that when the hotel owner recommended her driver for just another 100 quetzal. We figured that we might be better with someone we “knew” so we did. The driver came to get us on time. She spoke no English despite having studied English correspondence… I suspect that her English was okay but as we spoke Spanish with her, she made no effort in English. So, we set off. In rush hour. 90 minutes later, we arrived at the base of a hill and our driver recommended that we go up and view Antigua from the overlook.

View of the chapel with a view of the city.

The overlook is an outdoor chapel with lots of benches along the sloping hill and walkways down to a large cross. The view of Antigua with the mountainous background is a lovely place to sit and reflect. I was more into the people-watching.

When we got down to the town of Antigua, we saw construction on a large bus station and parking lot on the outskirts of the city. Our driver/guide told us that it was for Semana Santa (holy week/Easter week). We remarked that they should do it permanently and make the town pedestrian. After some cavity loosening driving around the town, I asked why were were driving around. It turned out that our driver was looking for parking. She did not know of any public parking places.

The streets are cobblestone which makes them difficult to walk on.

That was followed on by another surprise. We thought we had merely hired a driver. It turned out that we had hired a guide. As she was a guide, she tried to get us to go to the museum and the church in the center of town. We were not interested in either. Then we separated so my friend could take photos and I could sit and people watch. Now the guide didn’t know who to stay with so she ended up with my friend most of the day.

Although we were in Antigua during the cool season, the weather was still hot. Not hot like in the jungle, but still up around 89 F (31 C) in the sun. I don’t like it.

One of the cute things about Antigua is that the ice cream ‘trucks’ are miniature vehicles. The most popular ice cream seemed to be a sunset flame array of oranges and yellows. Our guide offered to treat us to ice cream but then it turned out that she forgot her cash in the car. It turned out that we were not interested in ice cream so it all worked out.

Ice cream truck at the Central Park.

While I was people watching, while sitting on a bench in the main plaza, moving to the half shaded end of a bench, I could hear the two senior gentlemen next to me talking about how they were set up with their wives in America. I didn’t listen in so I can’t tell you more than that.

Also while people watching, I saw a devilishly handsome young man, tall and bronzed, with long lush hair in a man-bun, stretching himself in the sun. He was accompanied by an equally attractive female. They had that look like straight out of a casting call — international travelers making their way around the world, last stop Thailand.

Speaking of height, I felt a bit of a giant in Guatemala as the locals are not so tall. People like to photograph the ones who wear native dress. (Did you see the lady wearing a blouse to match the flag?).

Local ladies enjoying ice cream.

In Antigua, the classic photo is of the arch, the Arco de Santa Catalina, which is was built in the 17th century as a bridge allowing the nuns to pass from the convent to the school without anyone on the street seeing them. Today, it is a highly touristy spot and it is hard to get a photo alone with the arch.

Vendors taking a break under the famous arch.

There is a large outdoor market behind La Merced church. I didn’t make it there. Maybe next time.

Best Deals in the Guate Central Market

Some of the wares available.

We got good advice. Go to the Central Market lower level to buy souvenirs at reasonable prices. Then go to Antigua and see how much money we saved. (Guatemala City is called “Guate” by the locals).

Central Market entrance.

As you may know, I love central markets. I love markets. This is my jam (as they say). I love going early before the crowds. We breakfasted at 7 am. The market was a quick Uber ride from our hotel and we were there by 8 am just as the vendors were opening up shop.

One of the tourist goods hallways.

First we looked at the various shops and did a full circuit of the lower level before returning to the ones that we liked. The vendors will friendly but not too pushy. Many of them wished for us to be their first customer of the day as it would give them good luck.

Guatemala is famous for their coffee.

I was feeling a bit dry in the throat so we had a coffee in the “comedor” which made me happy as that was the part of the market I really wanted to see (I’m much less of a shopper these days).

The market’s main dining hall.

Then we went back downstairs and haggled (they offered the deals due to it being so early in the day) before purchasing bags, shirts, and other textiles (I purchased nothing).

A typical stall at the food level.

We had no time to explore the food level of the market. Maybe next time.

Place Your Pollo Under the Seat – Guatemalan Food

The freshest chicken breast tenders, delicious fries, and giant stuffed chile peppers.

The pilot let us know that the airplane was packed so Pollo Campero (an international fried chicken chain) needed to be placed under the seat in front of us. I did not know anything about Guatemalan food when I went to visit.

Fresh chicken breast tenders and the best fries…

What I learned was that fried chicken tenders are excellent almost everywhere. This was so evident, quickly, that I ordered chicken fingers/tenders at every meal (not at breakfast). The Guatemalans also make excellent fried potatoes. I was loving it!

Pepian with rice and avocado.

Sure, the national dish is called “pepian” — a stew of vegetables served with rice and avocado — but it’s easier to order fried chicken.

Garnachas are fried tortillas topped with shredded beef.

To make sure that we tried some of the traditional dishes, we went to El Adobe, a chain of restaurants that serves traditional food. We had stew, tortillas with things on top, tamale-like things, and excellent tamarind juice.

Fried tostadas with tomato, beans, and avocado.
Chuchitos are thicker than tamales.

For breakfast, eggs with “sofrito” which was a blend of vegetables, not always cooked. The best part about the beans is that they are black beans which are pureed and strained so that they become like a hummus but smoother. Fresh cheese and plantains are also standard with breakfast.

Classic Guatemalan breakfast.
Another typical Guatemalan breakfast.

Guatemalan food is not really known on the world stage, but it’s really good.

Tamarind juice.

The Softest Sponge Cake in the World?

No, but it’s really good. It’s so good that they put a sign up about it.

One on of my New York City visits, I went to this place for the “best sponge cake in NYC” and it was.

The address is 118 Baxter Street. Inside is a bit of a dive (but it’s more fun that way, right?).

Try to go when the buns are hot out of the oven.

I’m not even into sponge cake and this was so soft. Is sponge cake the same as chiffon cake?