Turkish Yogurt

Thick, thick, thick!

Do you recall that scene from My Big Fat Greek Wedding where the father explains that everything was invented by the Greeks? Don’t mention that here in Türkiye… or rather, just use the same logic but assume that the Turks invented it.

Take for example, “Greek yogurt” — strained thick plain yogurt. It is called “süzme” if you are looking for it in the grocery store. The plain non thick yogurt is actually although fairly thick, but this stuff will not separate and you can stand a spoon up in it!

Testing a different brand.

Oh, and we should mention that yogurt is actually Turkish. The word come from the Turkish yoğurmak “to thicken or curdle” but the actual process also come from the Turkish peoples who moved from the central Asian steppes into Anatolia and Mesopotamia. The assumption is that yogurt was discovered by mistake when some milk was left in a goatskin… did you read my article about the goat of all cheeses?

The Ottomans made yogurt a big part of their cuisine and yogurt continues to dominate modern Turkish food. It is completely normal for Turks to eat yogurt as one of the sides of their every day meal (like eating ketchup, olive oil, or butter with everything). I see lunches that comprise of one container of meat or beans, one container of grain, maybe rice or bulgar, one container of yogurt, and one container with lemon, parsley, and a pepper, either spicy or not. In the dining room at work, there is always bread free for anyone to take to make their meal. This ties into cultural practice of providing bread or meals to those in need.

One of the main Turkish beverages is made from yogurt and water. Ayran is often served with a foamy head, created by running the yogurt mixture through a pipe or blender.

A traditional metal cup of ayran.

A Nutty Fairytale

I think it’s tea.

Once upon a fairytale, I had read to me stories of far away lands where boys in baggy Turkish pantaloons chased each other through markets with silk draped souk stalls, knocking over giant baskets, all while the colors of a thousand (and one) spices wafted through the hot sunny air…

Spices in drawers.

Stereotypes are hard to break. Adana is a modern city. But, I keep looking for that souk experience of my fairytales. Obviously without the humidity. And icky smells. Just colors and brightness.

Fresh sumac.

But, do you know where I find that in Adana? In the nut stores. And in the spice shops. While one can buy spices in the normal grocery store chains, it is still possible to find speciality stores with an “exotic” flavor. Often there are spices that I have never heard of or ever seen in leaf or bark form. In the nut stores, the sale of nuts is serious business often with a roaster outside (to attract custom with the aroma), but these stores also sell Turkish delight, candy, and other snacks. Mainly confectionary.

I don’t know. Potpouri?

The spice stores sell many kinds of spices but also often function as apothecaries, carrying olive oil shampoo, or baldness remedies. Some of the products are to be steeped as a tisane, or smoked, or applied as a salve.

I would like to say that these stores are located in the souks of my imagination. They are not. For that I may have to go to Izmir. Or Istanbul. Adana is too practical, I guess.

The Adana Kebab

Adana? Where is that? That is the reaction one usually gets to mentioning Adana. Although the city may not be famous, the Adana kebab (kebap here) certainly is. So what is it exactly?

It is a hand made artisanal hand minced lamb (must be from a male sheep younger than one year) elongated meat patty shaped around a metal skewer. It is grilled over an open charcoal fired grill. The Adana kebab is always grilled well done. There is a high percentage of pure white tail fat chopped into the meat mix to add juiciness and flavor. Non spicy red bell pepper can also be chopped in with the mix. The mixture is minced with a special crescent shaped cleaver, called a “zirh.” The percentage of meat to fat is 5 to 1. After the mixture is made, according to the recipe, it should be rested for a day.

There are some assumptions that the Adana kebab is spicy. It is not. Although the accompanying jalapeño chili can be. Each portion of Adana kebab is about 180 grams and it takes a master’s touch to make the meat mixture stick to the skewer so that it can be turned often while cooking. While the meat is cooking, the juices are soaked up with flat bread. This bread is served with the meat. It is fun to watch the master (“usta”) form the kebab. It takes a bit of water and a lot of skill to quickly move the hand up the skewer creating a wave of meat.

Like all kebabs, there will be the obligatory free salads (Don’t pay! They should be free!) and a grilled chili pepper and tomato. The kebab is served with flat bread, usually pide, so you can make your own delicious bites. Like most food here, you can spice or flavor the food as you like, with a sprinkle of red pepper powder, salt, or drops of lemon.

The typical drink with the Adana kebab is ayran, savory salted yogurt, or şalgam, fermented turnip. Or ice cold raki, alcohol made from grapes and flavored with aniseed.

Adana is proud and famous for the Adana kebab. Now that the Adana kebab is a designated cultural origin food, the city holds festivals of kebabs…

My informal guess is that there is a kebab shop on every block. At least one. Maybe two or four. So every day is a kebab festival!

The Special Foods of Antalya

Piyaz salad and meatball kebabs.

Of course I tried the specialties of Antalya. At first the hotel person told me to go to a place called Seven Sultans, or something like that. But I told him that I wanted to go somewhere that locals would go to, not tourists.

Just a two minute away from the mega tourism of Hadrian’s Gate, one finds local Antalya. I walked past the touristy juice bar and found, around a corner, Arabin Yeri.

The menu.

They were friendly in there even if they spoke no English and I spoke no Turkish. They conveyed to me that they only had the two top items on their menu. I managed to convey that I was dying of heat and thirst and they immediately brought me a bottle of cold water. Then I said that I only wanted a single shish kebab. They said that the portion was six kebabs of kofte (meatball) kebab. So I got a half portion.

The lamb kebabs.

I asked if they had “cag kebab” as I was told that this was the specialty. They only had the two items on their menu… More about cag kebab another time.

Arabin Yeri.

So I got the “piyaz” which is a cannelloni bean salad. It has tahini dressing, olive oil, onions, tomatoes, and hard boiled egg. And parsley. Always parsley. One is supposed to drizzle lemon juice on it and more olive oil to taste while stirring it all up. Then eat with spoon.

Look at the smoke! And that is indoors.