As I do for every place I’ve lived since I started this blog, I write a “realities” article where I talk about the downsides or less than lovely things about where I live (read about Rome here). This is about living in the greater Washington,DC, Maryland, and Virginia are (the DMV).
The traffic. The commute takes over an hour.
The prices. Everything seems to be expensive.
The politics. However one feels about politics, the reality is that this is a town based on it. So it is hard to ignore.
Seven dollars with tip.
Tipping: So much tipping and on EVERYTHING. 25 percent at some places.
The size. This is a spread out city. There are pockets that are cute, but in general it’s big.
The heat: In the summer, it is brutally hot and humid here. It is a swamp, after all.
The lack of authentic Mexican food: This is not really a problem for me, but for most gringos whom I meet around the world, this is a problem.
But order the west African food (the food is fairly meh but the west African food was not bad — the current cook is from there. I had jerk chicken and jollof rice). And take an easily embarrassed preteen with you (No preteens were harmed in writing this).
Gadsby’s Tavern is famous being one of the restaurants where the likes of George Washington ate. If you want that tourist experience, then go.
The actor who is dressed in period costume and makes his rounds speaking in “olde English” does a pretty good job of riffing in the moment (insert embarrassing comments to parents and preteen).
As Jeeves said, “It makes for light entertainment.”
As I mentioned earlier, I went to Table Talk diner. Inside it sure has the feel of an old school diner.
I imagine that they have a waitress named Flo… with big hair…
Gloria taking orders for pancakes.
As I was saying, it’s retro inside. One can meets locals. I did. One can chat with passers through. I did not. One can eat there everyday. I met a local who does.
If you find yourself back in the area, and need to get a crab cake, then drop by Table Talk. They got them under “must try.” They even have meatloaf and liver and onions. I may have to go back to try those. Meanwhile, their ham was good!
Virginia ham, bacon, and sausage.
The place needs to be saved. I hope they stay open for years to come.
Here is part three of the where I got to in my draft book about the history of America told through immigrant food. This is about three sisters.
For the next chapter in American history, we jump a century or so. After Columbus, there were other groups who attempted to conquer the “new land” of the Americas. Columbus had sailed for Spain.
Captain John Smith should get more play in American history as he made a lot of it. On May 14, 1607, he established Jamestown in Virginia. This was the first town of European settlers in the Americas to survive to this day. The earlier attempt at Roanoke failed in 1593. There had been attempts to settle in parts of the coast along what is Virginia today. The “Lost Colony” of Roanoke is a mystery. The 100 settlers left there probably were starving and assimilated with the natives who lived in the area. From 1492 to 1586, there were bloody battles between the natives who lived in America and the privateers/pirates/buckaneers who attempted to claim the land for their kings and queens. They were also looking for gold. When the rumor started that “Eldorado” or the land of gold existed, the race was on. But that is a story about South America. Maybe the subject of a different book.
Some of these explorers include Giovanni da Verrazzano who landed on the American coast in 1524 and in 1578, Queen Elizabeth I granted permission for Sir Humphrey Gilbert to conquer lands “unclaimed by Christian kingdoms.” When he died at sea, his charter was taken over by his brother and half brother, Sir Walter Raleigh. There are lots of myths about Sir Walter Raleigh and it makes for imaginative films. Interestingly, he could not leave the queen’s side, so all his “conquering” was done through other men. Roanoke Colony was founded in 1685. In 1586, Sir Francis Drake, returned to England after visiting Roanoke. It was at this time that tobacco, maize, and potatoes to the English court.
But what were the Americans eating? The natives were eating the richness of the land they lived in. They ate mainly corn, beans, and squash. These three are called the “three sisters” but the natives also fished and hunted. The natives in the first encounters with the English were part of the larger Algonquian peoples.
The natives ate many foods that are rare today (porpoise, whale, seal, moose, beaver, and other animals that are still part of the native diet) but they also ate things that we non-natives also eat such as strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, nuts, scallops, mussels, clams, crabs, trout, bass, flounder, and cod.
The three sisters, maize, beans, and squash (gourds) were planted together and formed part of the mythology of several native cultures including the Seneca Nation.
The Iroquois and the Cherokee called corn, bean, and squash the three sisters’ because they nurture each other like family when planted together. These agriculturalists placed corn in small hills planting beans around them and interspersing squash throughout of the field. Beans naturally absorb nitrogen from the air and convert it to nitrates, fertilizing the soil for the corn and squash. In return, they are supported by winding around the corn stalks. The squash leaves provide ground cover between the corn and beans, preventing weeds from taking over the field. These three plants thrive together better than when they are planted alone.
These are not the food of immigrants. These are the foods of people who were already here. Of course, the immigrants took on the foods that the indigenous people taught them about, told in a dramatic story that is celebrated as Thanksgiving. The Puritans arrived famously on Plymouth Rock in 1620. Modern day America is based on a group who found England to be too lax. No wonder America is so puritanical. But I digress. These puritans are why Americans celebrates Thanksgiving (in Canada it is on the second Monday in October). Thanksgiving in the United States is a big deal. It’s the biggest holiday.
Next time, I may try to make a three sisters salad.
In 2023, I moved to Alexandria, Virginia, a historic old town across the river from Washington, DC, the US capital. As I scarfed Vietnamese pho, drunken Thai noodles, Korean barbecue, Taiwanese bubble tea, Russian blinis, Mennonite milk, Neapolitan pizza, mini crepes from Hue, Vietnam, hamburgers charred perfectly, Greek salads, Lao sausage, Spanish tapas, Peruvian rotisserie chicken, Salvadoran pupusas, Uyghar spaghetti, New England meatloaf, clotted cream from England, and dim sum from China… I realized how much I knew about the diverse foods that make up American food but how little I knew about American history. I decided to write a book about the history of America. Through immigrant foods. Then, I realized, this was too vast a topic to undertake in one book, plus I have other things to do in my life… so instead I decided to write about the foods of early American history — from 1492 to 1792. Then, I got to chapter three and realized that I was not going to get anywhere near finished in a year. So instead, I’ll post what I wrote on this blog.
Vietnamese food
Some would say that the history of the USA should go back to the land bridge from Siberia when the ancestors of the native Americans, indigenous people, first nations, walked to the Americas. Some might say that the Vikings should be included in a history of America. Leif Eriksson was the first white European to set foot on North America, around the year 1,000 CE. Five centuries before Columbus, who never set foot on North America. Leif did not influence American food history. Some say that a history of America should include the Pacific Islanders who canoed to Hawaii a thousand years ago. For this book about the melting pot of American foods, I will start with 1492. This is when the bounty of what Christopher Columbus found in the Americas entered the European lexicon and mouths. Why European? Victors write the history and the Europeans were the invaders of America for several centuries.
I will start somewhere easy as the United States of America is a young-ish country so we only need to go back to 1450 CE (current era or AD). The USA did not come into existence until 1775 but for ease of history, I will refer to it as the USA even from before 1775.
Next time, I’ll start at 1492 when Columbus sailed the ocean blue. Christopher Columbus was not Italian. Italy didn’t exist as a country until a century after the United States became a country.
If you want a small town feel, a historic old European city feel, and still be near a big city, then you will understand why Old Town Alexandria keeps getting voted as one of the best small towns in America. It is really cute. It has free busses and a free trolley from the subway stop. Also, it is on a subway line that connects to two airports.
I just like how quaint it is (oh, and I love the dairy sold at the farmers market — the market is from 1753 and is the oldest continuous farmers market in America. It is every Saturday from 7-noon). Several of the blocks in the heart of the waterfront area have been made pedestrian only. Many restaurants line these blocks and it is a pleasant place to eat, socialize, and people watch. The boardwalk/quay is nicely made and there are both toilets, drinking fountains, and benches all within easy reach.
If you visit, try going during the day and visit the Torpedo Factory, an old factory turned into artist studios and shops. There are also many tours of Old Town, covering history, food, and ghost.
The streets are tree lined and a few still have the original cobblestones. This is an old city so you may need to walk arm in arm on the uneven sidewalks.
The prices are bit high these days so I am shopping at Aldi and Lidl. In the DC area, the grocery store chains are Whole Foods, Wegmans, Harris Teeter, Giant, Target, Safeway, Trader Joes, Freshmart, Shoppers, Aldi, Lidl. There are others such as Food Lion and Save a Lot which are really lower cost but they tend not to be where I go. There are international food stores, such as H Mart, Lotte, LaMart, and New Grand Mart which carry many Korean and Latin American foods but also have all the other items that Americans buy.
Unusual foods are the norm in Aldi and Lidl.
The large stores tend to have deli counters and food ready to go. But the smaller cheaper stores tend to have whacky and imported finds.
In the United States, grocery stores are chains and they are huge. Some stores in the US are the size of malls in other countries. When I lived in Rome, most of the grocery stores were pretty small, maybe two to four aisles. American grocery stores can be so large that you can get many of your 10,000 steps in just by walking down the aisles. One thing I notice is that most are only one level. This is because America has a lot of space. Or maybe it has to do with people being more willing to shop if they can stay on one level.
There are smaller independent grocery stores but these tend to be more expensive. The US is a car based country so most stores have huge parking lots and people buy large portions of lots of things. Most people do not shop every day. Maybe once per week. It is amazing how long things can last in the fridge. Scary.
Actually the strawberry flavor was awful.
The main reason I shop in Aldi and Lidl is because they have European style Greek yogurt which has a higher fat content so it is not runny.
Washington, DC is a city that goes to bed early. Most restaurants are open all day and many serve dinner as early as 4 pm. There are even restaurants that close at 9 pm! But if you get here in the middle of the night and need to eat, here are a few places open all day, all night, every day of the year, 24/7. Most of these places are not on the Metro line, but then again, the Metro does not run all night.
Tortas y Tacos Chiquita, 2911 Columbia Pike, Arlington, Virginia. It is a Mexican place located about a mile from the Pentagon.
Mexican place on Columbia Pike.
Kabob Palace, 2315 S. Eads Street, Arlington, VA. This is a well known kabob place near National Airport.
Yechon, 4121 Hummer Road, Annandale, VA. This Korean barbecue restaurant is large and humming at 3 am.
Tosokchon, 7031 Little River Turnpike #21D, Annandale, VA. A Korean restaurant hidden in the strip mall behind Shilla Bakery.
Steak ‘n Egg (24 hour on Saturday only), 4700 Wisconsin Ave NW, Washington, DC. Located way above Georgetown, this all day breakfast place is famous. After a renovation, they now have a bit more seating.
Bob and Edith’s is a diner that has various locations.
Ihop is a fast food pancake restaurant. All day breakfast and pancakes piled like cake available all day.
McDonalds. Some are open all day but in the DC area, this tends to be the ones out on the highways.
Denny’s is a breakfast chain that also serves food throughout the day.
Subway is a sandwich chain. Most do not have too much seating.
And a few others on this list from Eater that include Gom Tang E out in Centreville.
Watch the mighty Potomac crash through Great Falls. It is magnificent without being strenuous. Great Falls is on both sides of the river but the better walk is on the Maryland side.
View the monuments by night with friends. The monuments are lit up at night and it is completely different than visiting during the day. And cooler (if it is summer).
Walk in the Arboretum. See pretty plants and Greek columns.
Explore a local trail. There are many that one rarely notices. One example is the Arlington Loop, map here.
Walk along the George Washington Parkway, or along the river on the Virginia side. Take the trail from Memorial bridge. Walk all the way to Mount Vernon if you… bike! It is 18 miles from Theodore Roosevelt Island (see above) to Mount Vernon.
A view from the car of the Washington Memorial across the river.
Join a walking group. Or find other walks in this list from Town and Tourist.
Unique experiences are often retro. The Arlington Cinema and Drafthouse on Columbia Pike in South Arlington is one of those places. Long before the lounger style dine in movie theaters, one could go to the Drafthouse and watch a show while eating dinner. Built in 1940 in art deco style, it was originally called “Arlington Theater & Bowling Alleys” as it was part of a larger recreational center which included a bowling alley. In 1985, new owners took over and created the dine-in concept. In 2007, the ownership changed again and live entertainment was allowed at the drafthouse.
This is how I came to see a stand up comedian perform live. I saw Michael Kosta for $35. He even took photos with us afterwards.
To this day, one can still get pizza and a beer, but the menu also includes vegan burgers, quesadillas, lava cake, and cocktails named after movies. And of course, popcorn. The tickets for the show are separate from the food an drink. The staff manage the entire food service while you sit watching the show.
As the cuisine at the drafthouse is perhaps not haute cuisine, that strip of Columbia Pike has many other options for before or/and after.
Supposedly George Washington sent produce from Mount Vernon to be sold at the Alexandria Farmers Market (I presume the “Old” came in later). The Old Town Alexandria Farmers Market has been on the same spot since 1753. Yes, you read that right. There is very little in the USA that has that sort of age (insert pun here).
Fall brings fall veg.In the downtown square of Old Town Alexandria.
A friend told me about this market and I had “been” many times when talking with her while she was walking there. But I finally went.
Apples of all types.Veg forward food.
At first I was a bit so so about it because it seemed more like just a bunch of tents set up. But then I became alright with that. Not every market can be alleyways in a souk. This market was sunny and cool on this crisp fall day.
The pie line was too long.Pumpkin is a thing in America in the fall.
Lots of people selling all kinds of things from fresh milk, apples, pies, pastries, artwork, coffee, chocolate, dumplings, cider, vegetables, hummus, and veg-forward food (vegetarian).
The sausage breakfast sandwich making factory.Good but not going to stand in line good.
I had read about the breakfast sausage sandwich from Hog Heaven. I stood in line for 30 minutes for my breakfast sandwich. It was good but not something I would stand in line for again. I guess I wish that all breakfast sandwiches were so good that a sandwich like that was the norm.
Samples are a great way to make sure you like it.
On the other hand, Coulter Farms is my new crush. Their fresh milk is so creamy and delicious that I drank a gallon (3.75 liters) in two days. They also sell cheese, yogurt, kefir, chocolate milk, chilli, meat, and granola. But, it’s about the milk. I ask them if they made cream and clotted cream and was told, “Only when there is leftover milk.” Well, I can see why there isn’t. I would drink it all.
The yellow of the butter warms my cockles.
I reached out to Coulter Farms to see if we could visit their farm in Pennsylvania. Eeeek! I got a friendly email from Ma Coulter saying that they will be opening a B&B soon. So excited!
See the crowds?
Anyway, the Old Town Alexandria Farmers market is open every Saturday, rain, shine, hot, warm, freezing, from 7-12 noon. Yes, even in the winter. Get there early.
I was recently in the new Trader Joes in Clarendon, Virginia, USA, and I was bedazzled by the array of new choices. Mine was a normal reaction and I came prepared with camera.
Bread by any name.
Whether you call it a tomato or a tomato, it’s still a tomato. Milk, however, is not just milk. And how great is that!
