The History of the USA Told Through Immigrant Food

In 2023, I moved to Alexandria, Virginia, a historic old town across the river from Washington, DC, the US capital. As I scarfed Vietnamese pho, drunken Thai noodles, Korean barbecue, Taiwanese bubble tea, Russian blinis, Mennonite milk, Neapolitan pizza, mini crepes from Hue, Vietnam, hamburgers charred perfectly, Greek salads, Lao sausage, Spanish tapas, Peruvian rotisserie chicken, Salvadoran pupusas, Uyghar spaghetti, New England meatloaf, clotted cream from England, and dim sum from China… I realized how much I knew about the diverse foods that make up American food but how little I knew about American history. I decided to write a book about the history of America. Through immigrant foods. Then, I realized, this was too vast a topic to undertake in one book, plus I have other things to do in my life… so instead I decided to write about the foods of early American history — from 1492 to 1792. Then, I got to chapter three and realized that I was not going to get anywhere near finished in a year. So instead, I’ll post what I wrote on this blog.

Vietnamese food


Some would say that the history of the USA should go back to the land bridge from Siberia when the ancestors of the native Americans, indigenous people, first nations, walked to the Americas. Some might say that the Vikings should be included in a history of America. Leif Eriksson was the first white European to set foot on North America, around the year 1,000 CE. Five centuries before Columbus, who never set foot on North America. Leif did not influence American food history. Some say that a history of America should include the Pacific Islanders who canoed to Hawaii a thousand years ago. For this book about the melting pot of American foods, I will start with 1492. This is when the bounty of what Christopher Columbus found in the Americas entered the European lexicon and mouths. Why European? Victors write the history and the Europeans were the invaders of America for several centuries. 

I will start somewhere easy as the United States of America is a young-ish country so we only need to go back to 1450 CE (current era or AD). The USA did not come into existence until 1775 but for ease of history, I will refer to it as the USA even from before 1775.

Next time, I’ll start at 1492 when Columbus sailed the ocean blue. Christopher Columbus was not Italian. Italy didn’t exist as a country until a century after the United States became a country.

Where Have All the Hole-in-the-wall Places Gone?

Taco Ssam surrounds the Pho and Grill place — they have a restaurant and take out on either side of the grill

Living in the DC area, I rarely go to a hole-in-the-wall. Even the famous ones are… famous. For example, Blue & White Carry Out in Alexandria is still a small “shack” but it is well known. And some say the prices are getting a bit too big for their britches.

Inside the grill. Lots of room.

Often, when invited to happy hours, the location is in DC, super crowded, and the appetizers cost $20. Recently, I went to a much less fancy happy hour. Actually there are two places, cantinas, in the Culmore strip mall. The one plays latin music at a slightly lower level. There were mostly guys enjoying a pail of 10 beers before going home… one guy was asleep on the table. But, no one bothered us.

Inside Taco Ssam.

The prices were good too. One place is called a grill and the other is a Korean taco chain (they have two locations). I’d go back. A the grill, they have pupusas from El Salvador and pho soup from Vietnam. No, it’s not like your Vietnamese grandma’s soup. But they figured that they could make a clear soup and their customers like it. America is a melting pot, remember?

Happy hour prices are a bit cheaper than the regular prices but not by much.

I’ll continue my search. Recently, I went to Table Talk, a local diner in Alexandria. It was really old school. But not a hole in the wall.

Old Town Alexandria

If you want a small town feel, a historic old European city feel, and still be near a big city, then you will understand why Old Town Alexandria keeps getting voted as one of the best small towns in America. It is really cute. It has free busses and a free trolley from the subway stop. Also, it is on a subway line that connects to two airports.

I just like how quaint it is (oh, and I love the dairy sold at the farmers market — the market is from 1753 and is the oldest continuous farmers market in America. It is every Saturday from 7-noon). Several of the blocks in the heart of the waterfront area have been made pedestrian only. Many restaurants line these blocks and it is a pleasant place to eat, socialize, and people watch. The boardwalk/quay is nicely made and there are both toilets, drinking fountains, and benches all within easy reach.

If you visit, try going during the day and visit the Torpedo Factory, an old factory turned into artist studios and shops. There are also many tours of Old Town, covering history, food, and ghost.

The streets are tree lined and a few still have the original cobblestones. This is an old city so you may need to walk arm in arm on the uneven sidewalks.

Farmers’ Markets

My plan was to visit all the farmers markets in the greater DC area. But there are too many of them. Most are now under one collective, freshfarm.org. If you want to find a Fresh Farm market near you, then check out their handy calendar.

Old Town Alexandria market is in the main square of Old Town.

Alexandria Old Town Farmers Market: is the oldest continuously running farmers market in America from 1753 (which is before America was a country). It is every Saturday morning, 7-12noon, all year round, rain, snow, sun, and wind.

Alexandria North: is an independent market on Thursday afternoons and Sunday mornings.

Georgetown: is only June-October on Saturday mornings.

Dupont Circle market

Dupont Circle: is all year. Part of Farm Fresh. It is on Sunday mornings and includes many restaurant stalls and non-food stalls.

Bethesda: apparently this one is one of the few that has remained independent. It is on Sunday mornings. Apparently they also have a women farmers market on certain days as well.

Dupont Circle

The Breakfast Sandwich

Large and greasy from Greenberry’s but good.

One thing Americans love is a breakfast sandwich.

From Eggspectation with fried “hash brown” potato patty.

I like the ones with biscuit and sausage.

From a mom and pop shop.

But english muffin is a common bread for the sandwich.

Also a croissant makes a nice breakfast sandwich.

From Wegmans.

Some are small and dry.

Fancy organic with everything home made, from Hog Haven at the Alexandria farmers market.

I am always of two minds about the sausage in the sausage sandwich because sausage is sausage…

Good stuff burgers.

Grocery Shopping in the DMV

Aldi

The prices are bit high these days so I am shopping at Aldi and Lidl. In the DC area, the grocery store chains are Whole Foods, Wegmans, Harris Teeter, Giant, Target, Safeway, Trader Joes, Freshmart, Shoppers, Aldi, Lidl. There are others such as Food Lion and Save a Lot which are really lower cost but they tend not to be where I go. There are international food stores, such as H Mart, Lotte, LaMart, and New Grand Mart which carry many Korean and Latin American foods but also have all the other items that Americans buy.

Unusual foods are the norm in Aldi and Lidl.

The large stores tend to have deli counters and food ready to go. But the smaller cheaper stores tend to have whacky and imported finds.

In the United States, grocery stores are chains and they are huge. Some stores in the US are the size of malls in other countries. When I lived in Rome, most of the grocery stores were pretty small, maybe two to four aisles. American grocery stores can be so large that you can get many of your 10,000 steps in just by walking down the aisles. One thing I notice is that most are only one level. This is because America has a lot of space. Or maybe it has to do with people being more willing to shop if they can stay on one level.

There are smaller independent grocery stores but these tend to be more expensive. The US is a car based country so most stores have huge parking lots and people buy large portions of lots of things. Most people do not shop every day. Maybe once per week. It is amazing how long things can last in the fridge. Scary.

Actually the strawberry flavor was awful.

The main reason I shop in Aldi and Lidl is because they have European style Greek yogurt which has a higher fat content so it is not runny.

Dip and stay.

When “Bizarre Food” Traditions End

It is often “bizarre foods” that are old traditions that no longer are available. In Italy, people asked me if I had tried “Casu martzu” which is maggot cheese. No, it’s illegal and I do not need to have maggot larvae jumping at my face while trying some cheese. I am not Andrew Zimmern. Like most of us, I was raised to try everything one is offered. But, I think that is different when offered things that are a bit on the special side. Often, I think that people are pulling one’s leg. When the situation is legit, then I will try it. Unless my gag reflex tells me not to. So I have tried moose nose and it was okay, but I was not offered the seal blubber because I was not of high enough rank. I have also tried to eat steamed aloe vera, but could not because it was worse than snot.

This is in Annandale, Virginia.

Other odd foods I have heard of are “virgin boy piss eggs” in China where eggs are marinated in urine. Apparently this was done with horse urine in Korea in the old days. Speaking of Korea, the Koreans have outlawed eating dog. Apparently there are parts of China that have banned eating cats and dogs. In several places in the world, I have seen unfortunate sign juxtaposition of Korean restaurants and veterinary practices. Was this oblivious, on purpose either from malice or humor? Whatever the reason, this will, with time, disappear as the people slowly realize that the Koreans no longer eat dog.

This is in Rome, Italy.

Because of the connection with Koreans and eating dog, I was a bit surprised when I saw what I thought was an oven for dogs… but it was a specialized dog dryer — a sign of the opposite end of the spectrum for dogs — from meat to pet.

At an H Mart, a Korean grocery chain.

The Capital Cookbook Club

A concoction from the book.

Apparently a cookbook club is the thing to do. I am part of one that was recently started by one of my social friends.

Cover of the cookbook we cooked from this month.
Cornbread.

Luckily the rules are not too strict (some clubs require evaluating the recipes and other rules. Read about how to set up here or if you don’t live in that area or want to find one to join, look at this site) at the Capital Cookbook Club. We get one cookbook to choose from, tell what recipe we are making, and then bring it to the meal on the agreed upon date.

The spread of bean salad, crab salad, peach glaze chicken, cornbread, potato salad, beans, and drinks. There were two desserts.

I do not like cooking anymore so I found a simple way to make a chicken dish. Others had made more effort. It was a lovely evening socializing while eating dinner. In honor of Juneteenth, we made recipes from Watermelon & Red Birds by Nicole A. Taylor, a James Beard winner.

Where to Eat When Everyone Else Is Asleep – 24/7 Restaurants in the DMV

Washington, DC is a city that goes to bed early. Most restaurants are open all day and many serve dinner as early as 4 pm. There are even restaurants that close at 9 pm! But if you get here in the middle of the night and need to eat, here are a few places open all day, all night, every day of the year, 24/7. Most of these places are not on the Metro line, but then again, the Metro does not run all night.

Tortas y Tacos Chiquita, 2911 Columbia Pike, Arlington, Virginia. It is a Mexican place located about a mile from the Pentagon.

Mexican place on Columbia Pike.

Kabob Palace, 2315 S. Eads Street, Arlington, VA. This is a well known kabob place near National Airport.

Yechon, 4121 Hummer Road, Annandale, VA. This Korean barbecue restaurant is large and humming at 3 am.

Tosokchon, 7031 Little River Turnpike #21D, Annandale, VA. A Korean restaurant hidden in the strip mall behind Shilla Bakery.

Steak ‘n Egg (24 hour on Saturday only), 4700 Wisconsin Ave NW, Washington, DC. Located way above Georgetown, this all day breakfast place is famous. After a renovation, they now have a bit more seating.

Bob and Edith’s is a diner that has various locations.

Ihop is a fast food pancake restaurant. All day breakfast and pancakes piled like cake available all day.

McDonalds. Some are open all day but in the DC area, this tends to be the ones out on the highways.

Denny’s is a breakfast chain that also serves food throughout the day.

Subway is a sandwich chain. Most do not have too much seating.

And a few others on this list from Eater that include Gom Tang E out in Centreville.

Spicy Meat and Ham

SPAM. Not the sort of spam that you get in your inbox, but the kind that one finds in America. Okay, okay, the other kind is prevalent in America too! The first time I had SPAM that I liked was when it was fried and served with rice. SPAM is more popular in Hawaii as a result of the its introduction to Hawaii during WWII.

SPAM as a canned meat product was invented by Hormel in 1937 as “SPicy meat and hAM” and the use of spam for unwanted junk mail is from a 1970 Monty Python sketch partially quoted here:

Waitress: Well, there’s egg and bacon; egg sausage and bacon; egg and spam; egg bacon and spam; egg bacon sausage and spam; spam bacon sausage and spam; spam egg spam spam bacon and spam; spam sausage spam spam bacon spam tomato and spam …

Chorus of Vikings (chanting): Spam spam spam spam …

Waitress: … spam spam spam egg and spam; spam spam spam spam spam spam baked beans spam spam spam …

Vikings (singing): Spam! Lovely spam! Lovely spam!

SPAM is best eaten warm and fried, but it is also good in a sandwich or a soup. SPAM is a potted meat sort of like a sausage encased in metal instead of intestine. People have strong feelings about SPAM but I think of like sausage. Another thing that should be fried and warm when eaten. And like sausage, you do not want to think too much about what is in it or how it is made.

In the way of urban legends, there is also that idea that SPAM tastes like human and that is why it was so popular in the former Sandwich islands (Hawaii) where the original inhabitants did eventually boil up Captain Cook… such an unfortunate name…

Barbecue, the All American Way

Discussing barbecue or bbq can lead to arguments. There are strong opinions of what is true barbecue. Experts will tell you tales of smoke, heat, wood, water, fire, dry or wet, brine or no brine, cut, butt, baby back ribs, spare ribs, pork shoulder, brisket, beef ribs, East coast, Carolina, Florida… the terminology goes on and on. Plus now in the DC area, there is Korean and Salvadoran barbecue and all the fusions in between.

Barbecue is quintessentially American. The word comes from the native word barbacoa from the island of Hispaniola (today’s Haiti and Dominican Republic). The idea is that long slow applications of heat will improve tough cuts of meat. Everyone used to use all the parts of the animal and turn them into sausages etc. but here are the most famous types (for a good read, try this article) explained simply:

Carolina style is pork usually slow smoked for 12-20 hours, served pulled apart, tossed in a vinegar dressing, and served in a bun.

Memphis style is pork ribs (and shoulder) in a dry rub. The shoulder is pulled and served in a bun.

Top platter has chicken, Texan brisket, Memphis style pork, Carolina style pulled pork, sausage, and turkey.

Texas is all about beef. Brisket is the most famous type but there are also tri-tips. The best barbecue in the DC area is 2fifty.

Brisket can be as juicy as this but it is hard to find. This was at Rose’s Luxury years ago.

Kansas City was once the meat packing center of the US. The barbecue here is ribs with sauce.

Kansas style ribs on the upper left smothered in sauce, pulled pork, sauce, coleslaw, brisket, sausage, and wings. Fries in this style are a new fusion-y thing.

Apart from the meat, the sides are a big part of barbecue. I once had the best garlic coleslaw at a barbecue joint in Texas. I tried to buy the sauce but they said that it was only for eating in the restaurant. Darn.

Every year there are barbecue competitions and secrets about sauce, rub mix, and every other element are guarded in bank vaults.

If you are here on Memorial Day weekend, enjoy the smell of outdoor parties.

Memorial Day Weekend is the Start of Summer

Grilling.

Memorial Day is observed on the last Monday of May. Originally a day to commemorate the dead of the American Civil War, people began observing Memorial day in 1868 on May 30. In 1971, the holiday moved to the last Monday in May to make a three day weekend.

Considered the official start of summer in the USA, this weekend is the first big party weekend of the summer. In some cities, there are events such as laying of flowers, prayers, and ceremonies to honor the dead of all wars. Many women’s war organizations created the traditions that continue today including the decorating with flowers on the graves. (Today, the poppy is considered the flower of remembrance from the poem about Flanders field and the poppies growing among the graves of the fallen soldiers.) Many towns will celebrate with parades, including in the DC area, with the arrival of the Harley Davidson crowd.

A selection of barbecued meats some which show a smoke ring (from low and slow cooking).

But, today, many consider the three day weekend (the first holiday weekend since February), a start to the summer season and reason to barbecue. American barbecue is divided into “low and slow” and grilling. I’ll go into the “low and slow” and those various types, as in Texas or Southern style barbecue, another time.

To mark the start of summer, in Virginia, outdoor pools are only be open from Memorial Day weekend to Labor Day weekend which is the first weekend in September.

The important thing is to get outside and grill something!