Visit Lovely Antigua In the Off Season

The main plaza in Antigua.

When you mention Guatemala, people tell you to visit La Antigua Guatemala (old Guatemala) or Antigua. It was the capital from 1543 through 1773. For a while it was the capital of much of the region including Guatemala, BelizeEl SalvadorHondurasNicaragua, Costa Rica, and Chiapas in Mexico. Antigua was moved several times due to uprisings and volcanic activity, and finally in 1773, it was abandoned as the capital city.

It is a 90-minute drive from Guatemala City. I recommend staying for at least two nights in Antigua (maybe like what this blog article recommends). We didn’t.

The advice was to take an Uber. Around 290 Quetzal each way (at the time of travel that was equal to $38). We were about to do that when the hotel owner recommended her driver for just another 100 quetzal. We figured that we might be better with someone we “knew” so we did. The driver came to get us on time. She spoke no English despite having studied English correspondence… I suspect that her English was okay but as we spoke Spanish with her, she made no effort in English. So, we set off. In rush hour. 90 minutes later, we arrived at the base of a hill and our driver recommended that we go up and view Antigua from the overlook.

View of the chapel with a view of the city.

The overlook is an outdoor chapel with lots of benches along the sloping hill and walkways down to a large cross. The view of Antigua with the mountainous background is a lovely place to sit and reflect. I was more into the people-watching.

When we got down to the town of Antigua, we saw construction on a large bus station and parking lot on the outskirts of the city. Our driver/guide told us that it was for Semana Santa (holy week/Easter week). We remarked that they should do it permanently and make the town pedestrian. After some cavity loosening driving around the town, I asked why were were driving around. It turned out that our driver was looking for parking. She did not know of any public parking places.

The streets are cobblestone which makes them difficult to walk on.

That was followed on by another surprise. We thought we had merely hired a driver. It turned out that we had hired a guide. As she was a guide, she tried to get us to go to the museum and the church in the center of town. We were not interested in either. Then we separated so my friend could take photos and I could sit and people watch. Now the guide didn’t know who to stay with so she ended up with my friend most of the day.

Although we were in Antigua during the cool season, the weather was still hot. Not hot like in the jungle, but still up around 89 F (31 C) in the sun. I don’t like it.

One of the cute things about Antigua is that the ice cream ‘trucks’ are miniature vehicles. The most popular ice cream seemed to be a sunset flame array of oranges and yellows. Our guide offered to treat us to ice cream but then it turned out that she forgot her cash in the car. It turned out that we were not interested in ice cream so it all worked out.

Ice cream truck at the Central Park.

While I was people watching, while sitting on a bench in the main plaza, moving to the half shaded end of a bench, I could hear the two senior gentlemen next to me talking about how they were set up with their wives in America. I didn’t listen in so I can’t tell you more than that.

Also while people watching, I saw a devilishly handsome young man, tall and bronzed, with long lush hair in a man-bun, stretching himself in the sun. He was accompanied by an equally attractive female. They had that look like straight out of a casting call — international travelers making their way around the world, last stop Thailand.

Speaking of height, I felt a bit of a giant in Guatemala as the locals are not so tall. People like to photograph the ones who wear native dress. (Did you see the lady wearing a blouse to match the flag?).

Local ladies enjoying ice cream.

In Antigua, the classic photo is of the arch, the Arco de Santa Catalina, which is was built in the 17th century as a bridge allowing the nuns to pass from the convent to the school without anyone on the street seeing them. Today, it is a highly touristy spot and it is hard to get a photo alone with the arch.

Vendors taking a break under the famous arch.

There is a large outdoor market behind La Merced church. I didn’t make it there. Maybe next time.

Best Deals in the Guate Central Market

Some of the wares available.

We got good advice. Go to the Central Market lower level to buy souvenirs at reasonable prices. Then go to Antigua and see how much money we saved. (Guatemala City is called “Guate” by the locals).

Central Market entrance.

As you may know, I love central markets. I love markets. This is my jam (as they say). I love going early before the crowds. We breakfasted at 7 am. The market was a quick Uber ride from our hotel and we were there by 8 am just as the vendors were opening up shop.

One of the tourist goods hallways.

First we looked at the various shops and did a full circuit of the lower level before returning to the ones that we liked. The vendors will friendly but not too pushy. Many of them wished for us to be their first customer of the day as it would give them good luck.

Guatemala is famous for their coffee.

I was feeling a bit dry in the throat so we had a coffee in the “comedor” which made me happy as that was the part of the market I really wanted to see (I’m much less of a shopper these days).

The market’s main dining hall.

Then we went back downstairs and haggled (they offered the deals due to it being so early in the day) before purchasing bags, shirts, and other textiles (I purchased nothing).

A typical stall at the food level.

We had no time to explore the food level of the market. Maybe next time.

The Washington Monument

West out to the Lincoln Memorial.

The Washington Monument was supposed to be 600 feet tall to honor George Washington (who was 6 feet 2 inches). It is not quite that tall because of structural concerns.

Life size statue of George Washington.

To visit, one has to reserve free tickets online (the use the national parks app). I was invited to go up.

The security is like airport security (including no liquids).

View to the east and the capitol building.

The elevator ride up is 70 seconds and my ears popped. The ranger who rode with us told us interesting facts.

Useful signs.

The top offers good views all around DC. There is also a small museum.

The ride down is two minutes stopping at times for views of the inside of the monument. When the elevator makes these stops, the lights dim… they should warn people about this… so they don’t panic (when the elevator was built, it was steam powered and women were not allowed to take it because supposedly the steam would be too much for them). The modern elevator is large and pleasant, except for those unexpected moments when the lights dim.

Clarens is Sort of Like the Southwest in South Africa

Golden Gate Park has lots of hiking trails.

Do you love the Southwest of the USA? But wish it was in South Africa? Then you are in luck! Here are some of the things to do in Clarens, South Africa. The Golden Gate National Park is right there, and this town is near Lesotho, so it makes for a good stopping point. The area has a frontier, southwest USA, feel to it. It’s about fours from Pretoria.

Golden Gate Park.

Cheese tasting at Baris: This farm cheese shop is so fun. Go for lunch and order a cheese tasting.

Cheese tasting platter at Baris.

Hiking: This is the real reason many people visit this area.

Gorgeous sunset in Golden Gate Park.

Gin tasting: At Clarens Brewery, they have a gin store, Junipers Craft Gin Bar, and they do tastings (plus they have some yummy food including their ‘chips’ or fries and they have Bunny Chow, a curry-in-a-loaf-of-bread specialty of South Africa.

View over my Bunny Chow.

Shopping: Lots of artwork, souvenirs, cards, clothes, and gin. I almost bought paintings by this local artist, Johan Smith. There are other cute shops including the Purple Onion. Make sure to check them all out. They are all next to each other. Everything from art, fudge, cards, shoes, clothes, and antiques.

Clarens has a Southwest wild west feel.

Entertainment: This town has live entertainment including a local guy who is famous in this local town.

Old timey feel at Purple Onion.

Eating: Surprisingly good restaurants for such a small town. The Italian one, Bocca di Lupo, run by a guy from Bologna, is divine. Excellent pizza and pasta.

Spicy spaghetti.

Sleeping: You can stay in a castle. I stayed at the Protea, a Marriott hotel because it was about four minutes downhill by food from the Clarens square with the shops and restaurants. Made for an easy commute after shopping or eating.

The shop at Highland Brew.

Outside of the town of Clarens, there are other things to do and see. Other than the cheese place, there is also a dinosaur center. If you want another cafe with views of the mountains and hiking areas, check out Highland Brew. It has food and drink, plus a shop selling jam and coffee.

Destination Weaving on Route 62

The main street of Barrydale.

Just as one has destination weddings, one can have destinations weaving shops. Am I being too clever? Yeah, maybe. Also, what is “roosterkoek”? (in the photo).

A view of the drive to or from Barrydale.

Back when I was planning my trip to South Africa, I dove into YouTube. I watched a video from “Tourist in My Own Country” about Barrydale, a town along the Garden Route and Route 62. Barrydale and Route 62 are a bit like those towns one finds in the Southwest USA, a bit hippy, a bit rural, a bit artsy. The drive to get there is beautiful. Stop to take photos. It’s a proper “drive” and you should enjoy it.

I want it so much that my heart hurts a bit.

Once you get there, stop in at Barrydale Weavers. Maybe do a gin tasting. Buy some blankets and table linens. Watch a weaver at the loom. Everything is hand woven.

Bar inside Barrydale Weavers.

Almost all the photos are from Barrydale Weavers because that’s the reason I went to that town.

The loom.
So much to buy.

There are also normal touristy shops and lots of quirky restaurants. You can try “roosterkoek” (translation is “grill cake”) which is a type of yeasty bread roll that gets griddled/toasted so that it is marked from the grill. You may remember that I love yeasty toasted bread so this was right up my alley.

Roosterkoek bread with grill marks.

We ate at Camel Horse. It was cute and the food was good. Not overly busy and excellent diffused light out on the deck.

Cute art at the Camel Horse cafe.

Harkerville Saturday Market

If you find that you have a hankering for souvenir shopping when staying in Knysna and it’s a Saturday morning, go to Harkerville Saturday Market. It’s on the N2 highway, halfway between Knysna and Plettenberg Bay.

There are stalls with leather goods, wood carvings, clothes, figurines, bags, food, and almost anything else you would imagine at a craft fair and farmers’ market.

Many of the vendors design their own wares from clothes, bags, to tables from old wood.

They even have decent toilets out back.

But, this market is only on Saturdays and they close right at noon! I almost tripped over myself shopping!

What to Buy In South Africa

Not to sound too jaded, but I no longer buy magnets, keychains, or mugs as souvenirs. I try not to buy anything… and fail. Here are some of the things I looked at buying while I was in South Africa.

Traditionally in indigo colors but now found in the full range.

Shweshwe: is a fabric type. It is a thick cotton with printed geometric patterns. Read more about it on this blog. Apparently the name is the sound that the fabric makes when swishing around someone.

The original store. Okay, a well known store.

Vellies are a type of shoe that are thin soled (so you feel the earth) with leather uppers. They are a working shoe. It is a thing. These are made by many people and come in all colors. I wanted to buy the ones made by the pest controllers at the safari lodge (odd side business, eh?) but they did’t have the ones I needed in the color or size that I wanted (even though they were willing to custom make them) and I didn’t want to wait.

Our safari driver/guide wearing his well worn vellies.

Blankets: maybe it’s not special but I liked the all cotton ones I got at Barrydale Hand Weavers.

They had thin blankets, like this one, and heavier ones.

Linens: Seems odd, but household linens from Mungo are divine. All natural, handmade, locally sourced, and those other feel good goods.

Yes, we wanted everything.
I even bought the apron.

Leather is apparently a thing to buy but I didn’t find any that I wanted to buy.

Artwork, especially from local individual artists, is a good souvenir.

Artwork at the farmers market.

Clothes: If you are a ‘plus size’ person, then you will find that South Africa puts those clothes in the regular shops and makes them in colors and styles that you would actually wear.

Nordic Christmas Bazaars in the Washington, DC Area

Icelandic.

As I have a hankering for Nordic food all the time (Cinnamon and pearl sugar buns, anyone? Liver pate and smelly cheese, no?).

Icelandic.

I wanted to make sure that I visited all the Nordic (There are five Nordic countries which include the three Scandinavian countries, just so you know) Christmas bazaars between last year and this year. Last year, I managed to go to the Finnish Christmas fair.

Christmas in Icelandic.

This year, the Danish and Icelandic bazaars were on the same day, November 9. So I went to those.

The Danish flag.

For those interested, the Finnish bazaar is on November 23 this year. The Swedish and Norwegian ones are on December 7.

Danish meatball open faced sandwiches. $7 bucks.

The Icelandic Christmas fair was out in Fairfax, Virginia. It is the only one of the Nordic Christmas fairs held out in Virginia. It was extremely busy which surprised me because I had no idea there were so many Iceland-o-philes in the area. Maybe everyone else realized that you have to go early if you want to get the good stuff.

Danish open faced fish filet sandwiches.

Then, I raced off to Rockville to the Danish Christmas bazaar. Wowza, were there a lot of people. Who’s left in Denmark?

I immediately got in line. It was the bakery line. Luckily someone came out to tell us that there was a separate line for the food… yes! Oh, but it was still a line. Just not as long as the bakery one.

The Danish Christmas bazaar only takes cash or personal check. Um. Oh. Kay. So I bought what I could get for the cash I had managed to find.

Danish apple cake.

I was delighted by the “apple cake” which is a legit thing but is so easy to make. It’s a trifle basically and you can make it anytime. This one was homemade with good sized chunks of cooked apple in the apple sauce.

Cheese, liver pate, curry herring, pickled gourd, and tinned fish for sale at the Danish bazaar.

As I was trying to buy cheese and liver pate, I heard some folks discussing if they should buy the “strong” cheese. I dissuaded them. Maybe it was wrong but I am fairly sure that they would have hated it. The cheese was a Danbo which is like havarti in texture. But the strong one has high uric acid making the umami part taste a bit like toe cheese. I didn’t explain it that well. But they thanked me. I wish there had been samples. But, these Christmas fairs are for a targeted audience who know what they want. It’s hard if you have no idea. Danish smelly cheese is a unique thing and I can’t really explain it except that it’s stronger than any other cheese out there. Forget the stinky bishops and French blue cheeses. But I digress. I got my chunk. And I will have it all to myself.

Even if you don’t celebrate Christmas, there is still lots of stuff for you at these Nordic bazaars/fairs.

Annapolis Tourist and a Time Traveler

Annapolis is the capital of Maryland and makes for an easy tourist outing from Washington, located just 30 miles to the east. One day, we went. It was a perfect day with blue skies and light breezes.

The downtown is adorable. Parking is not. One of the main attractions is the Naval Academy.

Lots of shops and antiques to gasp at.

There are boat tours and water taxis.

We ate on the south side and while it was quieter, we did not think the food was anything special.

We did stop at a cafe, Curated, and that was lovely. A young golden haired youth was sitting at the next table reading a Torah, a copy of Milton’s works, and a notebook in which he was taking concise notes with an old fashioned ink pen. No cell phone in sight. I wondered if he was a wraith, a time traveler, dropped into our world by the fumes of my coffee… it turned out that he was studying the connection between Milton’s assertions about the role of poetry in the Torah. He was going to do a doctoral thesis on this. We talked briefly about poetry. Then he left us to our breakfast. A bit later, a very modern young woman, cell phone attached to hand, sat down next to him. She asked what he was doing. He told her. At the blank look on her face, he asked if she had heard of Milton’s Paradise Lost. She said that she thought she had. Clearly no spark there. She got up and left quickly after that.

I remarked to my friend that artsy young men like that one were so unusual in the greater Washington area but probably not so out of place in New York City.

From inside Curate cafe.

If you visit Annapolis, you might not meet any interesting scholars, but you can absorb the history anyway.

Little Free Library

In the US (and in 120 other countries), you will see these little boxes with free books. They are part of Little Free Library, a non profit organization.

I have seen some towns where they have boxes with free tools or free food. I like this idea.

Brilliant Exiles

If you can find 14 friends, you can book a private tour. Otherwise, just wander around and read the labels, then google more info… and repeat. This exhibit shows how many American women, artists, dancers, lesbians, African Americans, writers, and freedom lovers moved to Paris to find the freedom to be themselves.

Learn about Josephine Baker, Gertrude Stein, and many other women who were trailblazers in the women’s movement.

This exhibit runs through February 2025 and entrance is free at the National Portrait Gallery.

Old Town Alexandria

If you want a small town feel, a historic old European city feel, and still be near a big city, then you will understand why Old Town Alexandria keeps getting voted as one of the best small towns in America. It is really cute. It has free busses and a free trolley from the subway stop. Also, it is on a subway line that connects to two airports.

I just like how quaint it is (oh, and I love the dairy sold at the farmers market — the market is from 1753 and is the oldest continuous farmers market in America. It is every Saturday from 7-noon). Several of the blocks in the heart of the waterfront area have been made pedestrian only. Many restaurants line these blocks and it is a pleasant place to eat, socialize, and people watch. The boardwalk/quay is nicely made and there are both toilets, drinking fountains, and benches all within easy reach.

If you visit, try going during the day and visit the Torpedo Factory, an old factory turned into artist studios and shops. There are also many tours of Old Town, covering history, food, and ghost.

The streets are tree lined and a few still have the original cobblestones. This is an old city so you may need to walk arm in arm on the uneven sidewalks.