Since you can’t take an Adana kebab as a souvenir, one has to (has to) find a magnet or mug as a souvenir. Recently, I was at the women’s cooperative, Adana Kadın kooperatifleri Birliği, for brunch and it turns out that they also have a shop (one is sitting surrounded by things to buy) so that is my recommendation for where to buy souvenirs.
Adana is famous for its clock tower, orange festival, Roman bridge, and the kebab. This shop, located conveniently in old Adana (just down from the clock tower, on the side of a park, Ziyapaşa Parkı), is a nice reprieve from the heat and bustle. Or cold and wet.
The orange festival is the biggest event of the year in Adana.
Aside from souvenirs like magnets, they also have handmade items and food for sale. And as I mentioned, you can eat there. The staff are very nice. It is hard to not buy a basket or hammer pants (which is the baggy style that many people wear here).
The other place I would recommend for souvenirs is Starbucks. Sounds odd? The Adana mug is adorable.
There are also other places to find souvenirs but one has to search. Or stick to the main touristy street.
Radical open plan living was shocking in the 1930s in Pennsylvania. This is one of the things you learn when visiting Falling Waters, the house designed by Frank Lloyd Wright. Falling Waters is a UNESCO world heritage site.
The inside living area was low, cool, and open.
Visiting Falling Waters makes for a long day trip (a 3.5 hour drive each way) from Washington, DC. Falling water is a popular site so make sure to buy tickets beforehand. The tour is about an hour. Be warned that there are many steps.
The house is built over a water fall and one can see how this was a calming retreat from the bustle of the big city.
The amenities are super. The visitors center is well designed and has a cafe, shop, bathrooms, and lots of comfy chairs.
Falling Water is so secluded that your cell phones will not work out there. The WIFI is spotty at best.
The building is being renovated.
We visited during off season which was cool and peaceful.
Isn’t it dangerous? That’s what I heard before I went. Yes, it’s as dangerous as other places in the neighborhood. If you decide to go, here’s what I recommend.
In Antigua.
Two nights in Antigua: Or more. It’s safe, cute, and there is lots to see and do from museums, ruins, churches, shopping, chocolate tasting, etc.
Absolute photo op place in Antigua.
Two nights in Isla de Flores: Or more. That town is too cute! Cooking classes, salsa lessons, coffee tastings, disco, delicious food, and outings! Plus, just walking, swimming, boating, and photographing…
One early morning trip to Tikal: Tikal is one of the largest Mayan ruin complexes. It’s also HOT in the jungles. The walk in to the bottom of the main ruin plaza is over a mile (2 kilometers). And out again. A total of five or six miles (10 kilometers). It’s HOT. I would recommend doing the sunrise tour where you get picked up at 2 am from Isla de Flores.
Two nights in Lake Atitlan: I did not do this but apparently it’s worth visiting.
Notice I did not mention Guatemala City. If you do spend time in the “Guate” as the locals call it, then go to the Central Market to buy cheaper souvenirs down in the lower level. The market is near the main square so you can see that as well.
The main things about Guatemala is how sweet the people are, how good the fried chicken (and food in general) is, and that not everyone else on the planet has been there for tourism. Prices are not as cheap as you would think but you can also go there on a budget (I did not). Also, everything takes a bit longer so don’t expect to see it all in two days (we tried!).
Tikal is a World Heritage Site. It was used for a Star Wars movie. It is majestic. But HOT. Here are my pros and cons of visiting Tikal.
This was used in a Star Wars movie (think ending of the movie).
The pros:
It is only a 90 minute drive from Isla de Flores. But 30 of those minutes are at the main gate while those that didn’t buy their tickets online go to the ticket office (my advice is get a coffee at the stand where the driver is getting his cup of joe).
On the way, you can see the alligator island.See monkey do.
The tourist museum and vendors are all at the entrance of the archeological park.
No one dresses up like a Maya.
There are lots of birds (peacock like birds and others).
There are howler monkeys that will spook you making you think some monster is coming to rip out your lungs…
You can still climb some of the original structures.
It’s fairly unvisited.
The main plaza.
There are bathrooms in the park. But you won’t need them as you will sweat out all the liquid in your body (or at least whatever is not blood).
Another pyramid.
The park is clean.
The guides are good. You must hire a guide (around 500-600 quetzal) for a sunrise or sunset tour, separate from your extra ticket.
More.
The cons:
Other ruins.
Too much walking on boring dirt roads wide enough for trucks. In fact, a dump truck takes stragglers out of the park at 3 pm every day. The walk in is over two kilometers (over a mile) to the rest station/toilets at the base of the main plaza (for the love of all that is right, put in a transport system! I’ll pay for it!)
The Jungle Lodge has cobble stones (why break our already shattered feet?) and costs $375 per night.
The Ceiba tree.
A sunrise tour from Isla de Flores starts at 2 am. I still recommend doing it so that you are not walking in the heat.
This is a huge site.
The sunset tour ends up with that two kilometer death march in the pitch dark.
Walking in the dark down stairs and over tree roots…
The mosquitoes leave puncture wounds that last for weeks.
A storage hole.
I can’t decide if the ticket price is a pro or a con. Things were in general more expensive than I thought they should be. But, maybe it’s a way to keep the place intact.
Another thing that may be a pro and a con — it’s not so easy to get to Tikal. An eight hour bus ride or a one hour flight from Guatemala City. Then the smaller bus. Then the walk in to the jungle. I guess it’s pro if you like excursions. It’s a con if you would like a pleasant air conditioned minivan.
To wipe some of the salt rime off your face.
I’m sorry Tikal, but I’m not coming back. You are just too hot, hot, hot for me.
Tamarind juice, water, and hibiscus (flor de jamaica) juice to replenish the five liters I lost in sweat.
When you mention Guatemala, people tell you to visit La Antigua Guatemala (old Guatemala) or Antigua. It was the capital from 1543 through 1773. For a while it was the capital of much of the region including Guatemala, Belize, El Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, and Chiapas in Mexico. Antigua was moved several times due to uprisings and volcanic activity, and finally in 1773, it was abandoned as the capital city.
It is a 90-minute drive from Guatemala City. I recommend staying for at least two nights in Antigua (maybe like what this blog article recommends). We didn’t.
The advice was to take an Uber. Around 290 Quetzal each way (at the time of travel that was equal to $38). We were about to do that when the hotel owner recommended her driver for just another 100 quetzal. We figured that we might be better with someone we “knew” so we did. The driver came to get us on time. She spoke no English despite having studied English correspondence… I suspect that her English was okay but as we spoke Spanish with her, she made no effort in English. So, we set off. In rush hour. 90 minutes later, we arrived at the base of a hill and our driver recommended that we go up and view Antigua from the overlook.
View of the chapel with a view of the city.
The overlook is an outdoor chapel with lots of benches along the sloping hill and walkways down to a large cross. The view of Antigua with the mountainous background is a lovely place to sit and reflect. I was more into the people-watching.
When we got down to the town of Antigua, we saw construction on a large bus station and parking lot on the outskirts of the city. Our driver/guide told us that it was for Semana Santa (holy week/Easter week). We remarked that they should do it permanently and make the town pedestrian. After some cavity loosening driving around the town, I asked why were were driving around. It turned out that our driver was looking for parking. She did not know of any public parking places.
The streets are cobblestone which makes them difficult to walk on.
That was followed on by another surprise. We thought we had merely hired a driver. It turned out that we had hired a guide. As she was a guide, she tried to get us to go to the museum and the church in the center of town. We were not interested in either. Then we separated so my friend could take photos and I could sit and people watch. Now the guide didn’t know who to stay with so she ended up with my friend most of the day.
Although we were in Antigua during the cool season, the weather was still hot. Not hot like in the jungle, but still up around 89 F (31 C) in the sun. I don’t like it.
One of the cute things about Antigua is that the ice cream ‘trucks’ are miniature vehicles. The most popular ice cream seemed to be a sunset flame array of oranges and yellows. Our guide offered to treat us to ice cream but then it turned out that she forgot her cash in the car. It turned out that we were not interested in ice cream so it all worked out.
Ice cream truck at the Central Park.
While I was people watching, while sitting on a bench in the main plaza, moving to the half shaded end of a bench, I could hear the two senior gentlemen next to me talking about how they were set up with their wives in America. I didn’t listen in so I can’t tell you more than that.
Also while people watching, I saw a devilishly handsome young man, tall and bronzed, with long lush hair in a man-bun, stretching himself in the sun. He was accompanied by an equally attractive female. They had that look like straight out of a casting call — international travelers making their way around the world, last stop Thailand.
Speaking of height, I felt a bit of a giant in Guatemala as the locals are not so tall. People like to photograph the ones who wear native dress. (Did you see the lady wearing a blouse to match the flag?).
Local ladies enjoying ice cream.
In Antigua, the classic photo is of the arch, the Arco de Santa Catalina, which is was built in the 17th century as a bridge allowing the nuns to pass from the convent to the school without anyone on the street seeing them. Today, it is a highly touristy spot and it is hard to get a photo alone with the arch.
Vendors taking a break under the famous arch.
There is a large outdoor market behind La Merced church. I didn’t make it there. Maybe next time.
South Africa is known for safaris, Capetown, penguins, the garden route, where the two oceans meet, and wine country. If you want to get inspired, I recommend a South African Youtube channel called “Like a Tourist” (I think they may soon run tours as well). Get inspired by the lesser known parts of South Africa, shown with excellent cinematic skill, by a native. I got inspired to go to Barrydale Hand Weavers, but otherwise, I relied on the recommendations of a friend who lives there… If you want to do what I did, then I’ve listed it below. Note: I will write about these places in separate blog postings in the next six months.
My itinerary:
You might make eye contact with a lion.
Safari –– Four night safari at Madikwe Hills: Madikwe is a private game reserve to the north of Pretoria. It is a four hour drive of which the last hour or so is inside the game reserve (so you will be on your own game drive!). Madikwe Hills is a luxury safari lodge (Think in the $500 per night and up range). I will write more about Madikwe in a separate article. I highly recommend them. I will write about safari in a separate article.
The view of the “game drive” vehicle at our luxury lodge.
The Garden Route — two nights in each — Capetown, Hermanus, and Knysna:
Breakfast view of the back of Table Mountain, at the Vineyard Constantia hotel.
Capetown: We stayed at the Vineyard, not in downtown Capetown, and it was a lovely hotel with views of table mountain. While in Capetown, we went to the Cape of Good Hope (the “southernmost” point of Africa — actually location is Cape Agulhus which is 90 miles away), we did fancy dinners (Chef’s Table at the Beau Constantia Vineyard and Belly of the Beast). We took Uber (your account will work here too) as to avoid driving, drinking and driving, and parking nightmares. We flew to Capetown on Safair, a domestic airline, and two things to note about that — it is possible to take liquids onto your domestic flights so load up on your coffee or tea — and you can reserve the middle seat for not so much money thus making it a pleasant flight. While in Capetown, you can go up the cable car to Table Mountain. Some days you will see nothing but we were lucky with sunshine. The cool thing about the funicular is that it rotates! So you will get a good view wherever you are standing when you get in. The ride is short (five minutes?) but the line is long (buy the VIP passes). Check out the botanical gardens.
There is also a restaurant at the botanical gardens.
Hermanus: We drove to a secret spot to see penguins (Betty’s Bay, on the way to Hermanus, and park at the Stony Point Penguin Colony entrance — you will still see penguins even when the colony is closed. It’s an insider’s secret!), did wine tastings (more to come on those later), and stayed at the Marine One hotel. The staff are helpful, the penthouse is large with a view of the whale-filled bay, but there are no elevators). The staff there can help you get to your whale watching and wine tasting. This is the place for whale watching.
Penguins hanging out on the beach. Amazing views along the Garden Route.
Knysna (‘nice-naw’): This is a place to see the Knysna Headlands (I really liked the East Head Cafe), enjoy a sailboat ride, eat seafood, shop at Old Nick Village (a small outdoor shopping area including Mungo and their workshop), visit Barrydale for the drive and the shopping, and explore other shopping opportunities such as a farmers market. We stayed at Mount Knysna which has amazing views (and an elevator) and very nice rooms (the presidential suite has an extra bedroom).
View of the Heads from Mount Knysna hotel.
Another national park and small town — Clarens: Not on my list, but I went along with it. The town is known for being a cute artsy town, for the local hikes, amazing vistas in the national park (Golden Gate is not just in California), and a fun pitstop on the way to Lesotho. We stayed at the Marriott in town because then the town square and delicious restaurants were within walking distance (five minutes), but you can stay at a castle or a palace, or something more rural. Up to you. There is lots of do in Clarens, from dinosaur hunting, hiking, gin tasting, brewpub visiting, and cheese tasting. I had the most delicious Italian food there. The owner is from Bologna.
Golden Gate park in Clarens.
Pretoria: See the government building and giant statue of Mandela, have clothes made (or not), enjoy the malls, the low prices for steak ($20 for a steak dinner) and other meat. Enjoy the jacaranda trees in bloom in spring.
Tender meat at cheap prices everywhere! This was a happy hour snack while on safari.
What time of year to visit? I went in October which is spring but the temperature varied depending on where we were. Some days it was unseasonably hot in the 90s F (35 C) and other days it was down to 50 F (15 C). The baby elephants and jacarandas are a springtime thing. Whale watching is in the spring.
If you find that you have a hankering for souvenir shopping when staying in Knysna and it’s a Saturday morning, go to Harkerville Saturday Market. It’s on the N2 highway, halfway between Knysna and Plettenberg Bay.
There are stalls with leather goods, wood carvings, clothes, figurines, bags, food, and almost anything else you would imagine at a craft fair and farmers’ market.
Many of the vendors design their own wares from clothes, bags, to tables from old wood.
They even have decent toilets out back.
But, this market is only on Saturdays and they close right at noon! I almost tripped over myself shopping!
Annapolis is the capital of Maryland and makes for an easy tourist outing from Washington, located just 30 miles to the east. One day, we went. It was a perfect day with blue skies and light breezes.
The downtown is adorable. Parking is not. One of the main attractions is the Naval Academy.
Lots of shops and antiques to gasp at.
There are boat tours and water taxis.
We ate on the south side and while it was quieter, we did not think the food was anything special.
We did stop at a cafe, Curated, and that was lovely. A young golden haired youth was sitting at the next table reading a Torah, a copy of Milton’s works, and a notebook in which he was taking concise notes with an old fashioned ink pen. No cell phone in sight. I wondered if he was a wraith, a time traveler, dropped into our world by the fumes of my coffee… it turned out that he was studying the connection between Milton’s assertions about the role of poetry in the Torah. He was going to do a doctoral thesis on this. We talked briefly about poetry. Then he left us to our breakfast. A bit later, a very modern young woman, cell phone attached to hand, sat down next to him. She asked what he was doing. He told her. At the blank look on her face, he asked if she had heard of Milton’s Paradise Lost. She said that she thought she had. Clearly no spark there. She got up and left quickly after that.
I remarked to my friend that artsy young men like that one were so unusual in the greater Washington area but probably not so out of place in New York City.
From inside Curate cafe.
If you visit Annapolis, you might not meet any interesting scholars, but you can absorb the history anyway.
Watch the mighty Potomac crash through Great Falls. It is magnificent without being strenuous. Great Falls is on both sides of the river but the better walk is on the Maryland side.
View the monuments by night with friends. The monuments are lit up at night and it is completely different than visiting during the day. And cooler (if it is summer).
Walk in the Arboretum. See pretty plants and Greek columns.
Explore a local trail. There are many that one rarely notices. One example is the Arlington Loop, map here.
Walk along the George Washington Parkway, or along the river on the Virginia side. Take the trail from Memorial bridge. Walk all the way to Mount Vernon if you… bike! It is 18 miles from Theodore Roosevelt Island (see above) to Mount Vernon.
A view from the car of the Washington Memorial across the river.
Join a walking group. Or find other walks in this list from Town and Tourist.
Can Albania, with their Roman ruins and Greek temples, blue waters, and Adriatic coastline, be the next big destination? Many people are touting it as such. What I did notice were quite a few hair transplant tourists.
We went looking for the blue waters of the Adriatic. But, we went looking for the beach in the off off season, on a rainy cold day. We did find the beach and had a meal at a beach side restaurant (it was the only place open for miles), and oddly, I had to use my Italian language skills to order as the owner of the restaurant did not speak English.
I would recommend going way to the south near Greece when looking for sunshine. Or go in the shoulder season.
Still, it was nice to be able to get a decent “Greek” salad.
Another thing, everyone smokes.
But, Albania is the birthplace of Mother Theresa so perhaps people would visit for that reason too. There are things to see and do (the communist museums, the plazas, the Greek temples, the Adriatic, the mountains), and it is a bit cheaper than other parts of Europe.
The mosque in Tirana.
The Albanians are ready. They have the tourist gear. Also, it’s pretty inexpensive to get a car service from Tirana to Kosovo, Skopje, Montenegro, and other parts of the Balkans. This is could be practical because it is not so easy to get to some of those places but Tirana has a direct flight from Rome.
Diocletian was an emperor who managed to retire near his hometown, in modern day Croatia, and build a huge palace. He managed to abdicate. I am sort of fascinated by this. His palace is the old town of Split.
You can eat sort of like a Roman (they lay down).Romans!
Now, Split is very famous because of Game of Thrones. I was not there for GOT so I enjoyed the Roman ruins without searching for dragons.
The cellars where the dragons are kept.
Apparently during peak season, the rows of tourists go in a conga line down the narrow streets, one row going in one direction, the other going in the opposite direction.
A lovely archway.
Perhaps ruined by tourism. But if you visit during off season and go in early in the morning, you will get the sites a bit more to yourself. Even the vomitorium. I went in search of it, but it was just a ruin.
This is one of the few extant Roman walls visible today.
Split reminds me of towns with marble lined streets in places like Apulia in southern Italy. I have a weakness for these white marble streets. I guess it makes it look clean. I did not see any trash but I also didn’t see any trash cans. But, I did see garbage collectors so I guess they do a continuous cleaning service? It should be noted that it poured and flooded while I was there adding a nice freshly washed look to the town.
One of many courtyard restaurants.
The old town of Split is quite small so you can see most of it in a day or so. But, that allows you time to settle in a cute cafe (maybe in a ridiculously photogenic courtyard) and enjoy some gourmet coffee. I was pleased to see that most restaurants stayed open all day from breakfast through to midnight.
Tourism makes up 18 percent of Croatia’s GDP. I can see why. Split is a lovely town, even with 75 percent tourists. There are other things to see and many experiences that are made special by the tourist machine. I was in the oculus when a choral group began to sing. Magical. When I told the receptionist at my hotel about this, she said that even though she lived in Split, she had never had that experience. Probably because she was working.
The oculus. The chorus.
Again, to see the locals and how they live, get up early. Visit the market even though it is touristy. Maybe even visit the supermarket out in the edge of town. You might find some locals there. Or look in the fish market. I am fairly sure that no tourists go in there.
The fish market.
Having now seen Diocletian’s retirement home in person, I am even more impressed by his choice.
