Tag: dhaka

Restaurants in Dhaka – Part Three

M's Adventures
The lofty interior of the Village.

100 restaurants in Dhaka was my goal… I’ve now tried almost 50 restaurants (read about them in part one and two of my round ups). Many people were concerned about eating out during Ramadan (Ramzan here in Bangladesh) because most restaurants offer an Iftar (breaking the fast) menu and buffet. There were many restaurants that did not offer Iftar so we had many places to try.

The Village (8/13): Pakistani. Kebabs. Much talked about place. Food okay. Large space is good for business and clients. Noisy. Humid interior has a roof but no airconditioning in the main area. Note: Quirky interior.

Mainland China (8/13): Cantonese. The restaurant revolves at about one rotation in 70 minutes. The food is okay although everything seems covered in “chili sauce” which is fairly common in Bangladesh. Its a sweet red ketchupy sauce. Mainland China is to the north of the airport so almost impossible to get to for dinner during non-Ramzan traffic. Note: the place has a good view.

California Fried Chicken (2/13): Fast food. The service is slow, the marketing looks promising, and the food is awful. Weird rubbery dark meat with bone in the “burger” and the strawberry shake was like bubble gum. Note: also sells cakes and snacks from a separate counter.

Shing Heong (5/13): Cantonese. Average to not good southern Chinese food. Note: they plan on serving dim sum soon.

Club Gelato (3/13): Gelato and cakes. Seems promising but then the flavors are all fake and faker. Disgusting really with a chemical aftertaste. Note: serves coffee and looks like a good place to go.

Urban Spice (8/13): Indonesian. Food is acceptable. Tom Yum soup was good, though not Indonesian. Note: Decor is modern and chic.

Hotel Al-Razzaque (5/13): Local Bangladeshi. Very local place downtown Dhaka. Note: So authentic that expats are “protected” from using the bathroom.

Coopers (6/13): Bakery. Dry cakes. Note: popular with locals.

Nandos (7/13): Chicken South African style. Yup, just like in South Africa. Note: Yes, it’s the chain from South Africa.

Time Out Cafe (9/13): Indian-Bangladeshi-Asian. Note: Dhosa, wings, and noodles can all be had in their courtyard. It’s in the hip area of Banani. Young Bangladeshis like it.

BBQ at the Ascot (3/13): Continental. Note: Strange small pieces of meat. Some things okay. Some not.

Boomers (4/13): Bangladeshi Chinese fast food. Very popular with locals. Note: The pizza with sweet canned milk on top is too sweet for most expats.

@Corner (6/13): Thai. Considered by many to be the top Thai restaurant in town. Note: It is located on the top floor of a shopping mall walking past the open latrines can scare newbie expats.

The 8 (7/13): Pan Asian. Great variety. Pepper steak will make you choke from the fumes. Note: looks nice and elegant inside but the food is only okay.

Izumi (8/13): Japanese. Elegant interior. Large. Good for business clients. Note: Interior is dark. Black walls.

Kasturi (7/13): Bangladeshi. They claim to be the best Bangladeshi restaurant in the world… Note: They have an outdoor patio dining area. It is truly local food if you avoid the Indian and Chinese items on the menu.

Crocodiles climbing the walls at the Village.

I do try to not let my opinions be influenced by how much fun I had going out to these places. Clearly, I’m enjoying myself.

A little flute music to follow you out of the Village…

Cover the Assets – Expat Dress in Dhaka

M's Adventures
The expat uniform.

First things first: If you look different from the Bangladeshis (and even if you don’t), people will stare at you in Dhaka. And if you are an expat, you will most definitely be stared at. It’s just what people do. Usually the stares are not aggressive or sleazy. For expat men, going shirtless or in shorts will attract attention. But, expat women seem more concerned (and they get more attention) about what to wear to be modest and respectful. Here are some basic observations I’ve made. Basically, if you are covered in loose clothing from collarbone-elbow-ankle and make sure that your rear end is covered by tunic… then you will be dressed like the locals. I notice that expat women who have lived here for a few months wear what I call the “expat uniform” – a kameez (tunic top), scarf (cotton), zip off REI pants, and TEVAs. Or the equivalent non brands. The basics of what I do (much more when going outside the expat area of town) is:

1. wear baggy pants/trousers/slacks which reach to the lower calf or longer. I don’t wear pants that drag on the ground because there’s sewage everywhere so I don’t want crud to accumulate on my ankles.

2. cover the assets (bust and bum) with loose cloth with the scarf covering the bust even though my neckline is to the collarbone. Cover my bum with the long length of my tunic.

3. cover my shoulders. No tank tops. And you are welcome since you don’t want to see my upper arms anyway.

No, I don’t cover my head. But, you can read my posting about why you might want to. I also have my hair out and I don’t think it’s too sexy. Lots of the locals wear their hair uncovered. Dark eye makeup is normal for the ladies here. If you are a pale blonde and wear red lipstick, folks are going to stare (which they will anyway but maybe for different reasons). But, many expats (especially hard on young blondes) find it a hassle to not be able to go anywhere without being stared at ALL the time. ALL the time. As a life long outsider, I’ve been stared at a lot so I don’t feel bad. If they are trying to photograph me all the time, then I take photos of THEM.

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One last thing, there are expats who will jog in short spandex… if you plan on doing that, make sure that you can OUTRUN the hordes who will race after you.

iPhone in Dhaka

M's Adventures
Airtel kiosk sells Grameen top up cards.

Many of the photos I take are with my iPhone including this one of the kiosk (near Gulshan 2 circle on the DIT 2 market side of Madani Avenue) where one can purchase scratch off top up cards for one’s prepaid iPhone. If your phone is unlocked, you can buy a sim card, some scratch off cards, and after some set up, you are good to go. I’d guess I use around 300 Taka per month ($4) on my phone and Internet. The sim card cost 250 Taka. You can also go the post-paid route and go to Grameen phone, give them copies of your passport, a photo, and then you will receive a bill monthly.

Ramadan In Dhaka

M's Adventures

One of the changes in Dhaka during Ramadan (or Ramzan as they call it here), is that the traffic patterns change. After 6:30 p.m., there is almost no traffic on the roads so it makes getting around at that time ideal for those of us not trying to be somewhere to break the fast (Iftar) at sunset. The times of the shop openings are slightly different and things are in general not as bustling. But only slightly. Mostly, what one notices is the lack of traffic during normal rush hour hours.

One of my favorite roads in Dhaka.

If you are lucky enough to be invited to Iftar, you will find certain foods ready on your plate for that exact minute when the sun sets. Most of the items are small fried items like dates, fish cake, lentil patty, mini funnel cake, etc. There is also a special lentil soup called “haleem” which is a must to break the fast. Lemon water is the normal drink served. After the Iftar, or breaking of the fast, people will go for a quick prayer, then they eat a supper, often buffet if at a restaurant. Many, if not most, restaurants offer Iftar menus.

The end of Ramadan is marked by Eid-ul-Fitr (the first of two in the year). The long Eid is a festive time lasting days. Families give gifts, mainly of clothes, to each other. The shops are open all night long so that people can shop. Bonuses are paid. During the long Eid, many businesses close for days and many people leave town for the long holiday. The start and end of Ramadan depend on the moon.

Turkish Bazaar in Dhaka

M's Adventures

You never know what will happen at the bazaar.

Unexpected hand exfoliation and massage.

Sometimes something will happen and it will be hilariously unexpected. When I had finished my meal and Turkish coffee at the new Turkish Bazaar restaurant and shop, I did not expect the owner to say, “give me your hand” and then pour my warm coffee grounds on my palms before proceeding to massage and exfoliate my hands. Made me laugh out loud.

The front of the restaurant.

Dhaka becomes more cosmopolitan day by day. In June 2012, Turkish Bazaar opened up in Banani, on Road 10. They serve healthy food and it’s probably the best Turkish food in Dhaka. I will be back for the food but also for another Turkish coffee.

Spicy sweet red pepper salad.

Restaurants in Dhaka – Part Two

M's Adventures

Every week, my group of Food Adventurers Tasting Treats in Exotic Spots try out a new restaurant. This is part two (I wrote part one in March) of my review of places we’ve tried plus some I’ve been to on my own.

Bulgogi at Dae Jang Geum

Goong (the Castle – as one can tell from the large wooden gate) is on Road 50, House 12. Previously called Dae Jang Geum until a copycat restaurant opened up down the street! (13/13): Korean palace food. Best restaurant in Bangladesh. Best service and best food which happens to be Korean food. You can cook your own meat at the table on the 4th floor. Go for the fresh food, service, and salmon sashimi.

New Kings Kitchen (5/13): Cantonese. Note: they have karaoke.

Saltz (8/13): Seafood continental style. Like an underworld theme park. Must try: the fresh juice.

Spitfire (8/13): Western style. Same good juice as Saltz upstairs. Must try: serves warm bread rolls with every meal.

New Mermaid Cafe (9/13): Large airconditioned location on Gulshan Circle. Note: wish they had an elevator but maybe that would not be eco-friendly.

Rok (8/13): Meat of choice on volcanic hot rock. It’s a gimmick. Note: interior is more swanky than caveman.

Sajna (7/13): Indian. Good for business meetings. Must try: Can’t think of what.

Red Shift (6/13): Cafe. Rooftop. Note: It’s a coffee shop. Enough said.

Flambe (4/13): Random menu but not much to offer. Note: some dishes okay but not a repeat kind of place.

Pan Thao (8/13): Best Thai food in Dhaka. Note: Service can be slow.

Mehendi For Weddings, Brides, and Friends

M's Adventures

Getting Mehendi, or henna, is usually associated with Bangladeshi wedding holuds (bridal shower), but it can also be done for other celebrations. Sometimes the celebration is the celebration of friendship bonding.

Mehendi flower on the palm.

Mehendi is a temporary tattoo of curling designs done on the feet, legs, hands, and arms. The ladies who do it are quick and the talents vary just as with any craft. The actual tubes they use are long thing cones made of foil paper. Depending on how much Mehendi you get done, it is fairly quick. A hand can take fifteen minutes. What takes a long time is waiting for the dye to dry. The Mehendi can be all natural or synthetic and it comes in several colors. The paste is usually a dark vegetable green but the resulting color may be orange, brown, or black. Once the Mehendi dries, the paste cracks and it will itch. The best way to remove the paste is with olive oil. I found using a spoon also helped.

Scraping the Mehendi paste off with olive oil.
Mehendi hands of friends.

A few weeks ago, a friend was departing for the U.S. and she wanted Mehendi. It would be clear that she had arrived from the ‘desh! Deshi style!

Mehendi on the feet of friends.

Jewelry for Your Neck and Furniture

M's Adventures

Even your furniture can wear jewelry. Dhaka is the place to get it made. In Gulshan, an expat, makes bead necklaces from her own designs, and to custom made. Many of the beads are from Nigeria, India, and Ghana. Some beads are made by women who have been rescued from a life on the streets so if you buy a necklace with these beads, then you can feel like you have done some good in the world. While still looking pretty.

A necklace for every neck in your home.
The jewelry maker.
Every color under the sun.
Mirror glass long necklace.
Necklace for the table. Why not?

Fine Dining Korean Food in Dhaka

M's Adventures

Finally a truly classy fine dining experience has arrived in Dhaka (I wrote this blog posting in 2012 and now I’m updating it 14 months later). It’s refined Korean food at Goong (formerly known as Dae Jang Geum and not to be confused with the Dae Jang Geum that opened up down the street). The smoky Korean barbecue is available on the third floor of the restaurant. Enjoy the elegant Korean food with an international fusion flavor (some may think that the restaurant is borrowing French or Japanese styling — the restaurant is not a hole-in-the-wall at all).

The Koreans have been eating raw fish forever as well.

I hope that this place can maintain the same level of food and service (and it has). If they then would start serving “specials’ at bargain prices (they do have lunch specials), I’d really have to move in!

Fried fish, fried vegetables, and other fried pancakes.

Soybeans, spinach, cucumber kimchi, potato salad, and kimchi are typical of the mandatory small dishes served at every meal.

Insist on the dumpling, mandu, being pan fried. Not deep fried.

The delicate mini bowl of pumpkin soup to amuse your palette.

The pretty tomato flower meant to tickle your taste buds…