I realize that I’ve been ignoring Statera restaurant. Or rather, that I haven’t been going there enough. Part of the problem, I think, has been that I forgot that they are open for lunch (their dinner service doesn’t start until 8 p.m. which is way past my bedtime.) But, their lunch is Tuesday-Sunday, 12:45 p.m. to 3:15 p.m. I think I’ll go more often for lunch. It’s located at Av. Mariscal La Mar 463, Miraflores. The place doesn’t look so big from outside so it’s easy to miss.
The reasons that I recommend Statera are:
It’s possible to eat there without planning for months out, as one has to do at Central.
The tasting menu is half the price and half the time.
The bartender is superbly skilled.
The owner, Andres, is a young chef who worked as Central’s Research and Development chef for two years. He also worked at Noma in Copenhagen. Plus, he speaks English and is personable (and he remembers the critique of his clients). He continually changes his menu, but has managed to keep menu items that worked well (like the pumpkin done in three ways — completely vegan — even though it tastes like fois gras).
While I send people to Statera if they can’t get in to Central, I think that Statera actually manages to embody the “nueva andina” cuisine better — combining both the beauty of presentation and imaginative use of local ingredients, while also providing food that is delicious and of normal portion size.
If for nothing else, go for the black aguaje butter and bread (see photo).
And before it becomes impossible to book a table.
Even if I’m not a fan of molecular gastronomy, I can deal with a bit of foam on my plate once in a while, if it tastes good! The desserts at El Chato (Diagonal 68, #11-29) are light and refreshing (note cucumber foam in the photo). The amuse bouche of pork rind was as light as pop rocks candy on the tongue. Delicious! The main courses and salads seemed healthy and did not taste as fancy as the treatment they received (pork shank brined for six days, then smoked for three etc.). Several of the dishes had smoked components which is not one of my favorite flavors. But, that’s just me.
