Comfort food is, thankfully, different in every place one calls home.
The Finns love their “karjalanpiirakka” or rice pudding filled rye pasties. I think of them as small lifeboats of yum. “Karjala” is a part of Finland and “piirakka” is “pie/pasty/dumpling.” The result is a mild buttery eggy rye taste.
Like all comfort foods, there is a different recipe for every grandma and the preparation and eating rituals lead to stories filled with nostalgia and memory.
If you have a Finn who can share their recipe with you, then go with that. Otherwise, look it up online. If you want to watch a video version of this article, please go to my YouTube channel.
This Finnish dish may not be exciting but I love it. I love the chewy rye, the buttery egg, and the creamy rice pudding. But it also reminds me of my childhood, and nothing is as delicious as food that reminds you of the comfort of a happy place.
I often write about markets, perhaps because as a a child, my imagination was fired up by stories about exotic markets with fluttering fabrics and adventures down narrow alleyways. The result is that, in every city I visit, I visit the market. The great market of Cairo, Khan el-Khalili, is extremely touristy, but maybe I should have appreciated getting away from the traffic.
I think I prefer the one in Istanbul. When I lived in Colombia, one of my favorite places in Bogota was the Paloquemao market.
In Peru, I went regularly on field trips to explore the markets. One thing I recall is that they always had a bathroom. I went to a couple of “dicey” ones including the fabric market near Sodom, Gamarra. When I visited the fish market, it seemed like it would be something from a Tarantino film but the reality was more late night shopping channel.
Another surreal place was the market in Caracas. There was an abundance of food but no one could afford it.
When I moved to Bangladesh, I had no idea what the markets would be like.
Another market that I return to all the time is Torvehallerne in Copenhagen.
Torvehallerne is one of the best food hall markets I’ve been to. I always come here when I visit Copenhagen. They even sell their smorrebrod/open faced sandwiches at the airport.
Sold at the airport as well.Roast pork sandwiches are some of my favorites.
There is a mix of local produce stalls, local Danish food stalls and restaurants, and international food options. The market consists of two covered halls with about 25 vendors in each, a mix of food stalls and eateries. There is also seating around the edges of the halls. Danes love to sit outside and eat.
One of the stalls at the market.In season in June, these strawberries are hand picked.
The market is in a square with a facing skate park square, and located on the metro line. Just north of the walking streets and oh so perfect.
Fresh fish.Fried fish filet. Yum.
The stalls will vacuum pack your food for you so can take fresh meatballs or cheese with you.
Menu at the open faced sandwich stall.
A plus is that almost all Danes speak English. The prices are steep but what cost for edible art?
No water. No soaking. Just straight filing. Like sandpapering.
As it is the new year, I was thinking about trends. The “Russian” style manicure or pedicure technique is emerging as a trend. It is also called an “efile” or “dry” manicure. Read about it here. Basically, it is a technique of using almost no water and using an electric file to do the removal and sanding of the hands and feet. There is no water bath for your feet or hands. To read more about American, French, or Russian manicures, read here.
The electric file.
When I went to New York City, I looked up a place to have this style of mani-pedi. There were at least ten places that showed up on Google maps when I typed in ‘Russian mani’ — impressive as in the Washington, DC, area, there are none.
There seems to be controversy about it. My friend who lived in central Asia for many years and encountered this technique there says that she prefers this technique because there is less shoving and pulling on the cuticles. Plus the nails come out buffed and shiny even without shellack. The Russian technique is more expensive than the conventional technique. (After a few weeks, I’m of two minds. I like the efiling but I also like getting my feet soaked.)
With acetone and a buffer, my nails came out shiny like they had been lacquered.
The conventional method with water (and often done by Asians, specifically Vietnamese) in the US is a result of Tippi Hedren (Melanie Griffith’s mother). She should get more credit. From the BBC article:
“Aside from flying in her personal manicurist, Hedren recruited a local beauty school to help teach the women. When they graduated, Hedren helped get them jobs all over Southern California.“
To read a history of the manicure, read here. As this article points out, this method is called “Russian” not because it was invented in Russia but because the method is popular in many Russian speaking countries including Ukraine, Kazakhstan, and the other stans. Due to world events, manicure technique is once again a way for refugees to find work and make a life for themselves in America. Who knew it would be so deep?
If you find yourself in Asheville, North Carolina, I recommend going on a food and history tour with Asheville Food Tours. It is a walking and sitting tour that includes food and drink (non-alcoholic can be requested).
Shit on a shingle at Isa’s.
In two hours, you will learn about history and try some of the foods of Asheville. The locations change so no guarantee that you will go to the same places I went.
Grilled cheese and fried okra at Blackbird.
Our tour guide, Sita (as in mamasita — which she told us to call her if we wished), was a font of interesting facts and history of Asheville. This tour is good for those who like fashion, food, drinks, and history.
Sita in front of an image of a tall building.
We had Southern food, learned about fashion history, drank pink cocktails, found out about pensioner history, ate biscuits, heard about famous people history, and something about the hill and tallest building (I was not listening).
A display at the mini fashion museum at Isa’s.
The tour costs $105 (I think) and is a great way to get to see Asheville. For example, Asheville has an old fashioned Woolworth’s. It has a community garden.
Cheerwine. It’s southern thing.
Of the places we went, two of the places were “foreign” and with the other folks on the tour — they were from South Carolina, I would have foregone the taco shop or the Indian stop (the restaurant put on a mini buffet for us so we got out dinner done on the tour!) for a barbecue or second dessert stop like a pie place. That is my recommendation. Seeing the reaction of the blonde faces and how brave they were trying the Indian food… the taco place was too much.
Funny children’s menu…
The tour started well with cocktails and “shit on a shingle” which is sausage gravy on a biscuit. The stop with the fried okra and fancy schmancy grilled cheese sandwich was also great.
The fancy mall, Grove Arcade, has apartments upstairs.
Well it would be for me if I lived in Asheville, North Carolina. But I am a city person so I would not want to live in a cottage in the woods. But Asheville has it all. I can see why this is an attractive place to live. Go on a food tour with Asheville Food Tours to find out more about this city. The Grove Arcade is on the national register for historic places.
A view of the main street.
The airport is expanding too so I have a feeling this place will grow quickly. Asheville was Cherokee land until 500 years ago. There is a lot of history in this town, but as a tourist destination, there is also more than history.
A memorial to where the drovers would take their animals to market.
I still love you, white rice. And you too, waxy potato. But, I think that sago may be my spirit starch. I like it in two forms — as bubble tea and sago soup.
Boba tea. Taro starch balls at the bottom of the two in front. Taro root.
Bubble tea (read Wikipedia’s article here to learn more) was invented in Taiwan. It started out as a drink with tea and tapioca (cassava) round pasta which looked like bubbles. Nowadays you can get it without tea or bubbles. With or without milk (soy, almond, cow, etc.), hot or cold, with varying levels of sweetness. I am not sure why anyone thinks that the tea is making this healthy.
Cold or hot is just one of the many choices.
The other form of spirit starch that I love, even more than bubble tea, is a coconut milk soup with sago pearls and warm tubers. I was not really sure what this is called when I had it for the first time at a Lao/Thai restaurant. But I was in love at first sight. And committed at first slurp.
The greenish rectangles and and brownish tubes are two shapes made from starch. Sign indicating “ton sui” of various types and flavors.
Apparently in Cantonese, a dessert pudding/porridge is called “tong sui” as you can see in the photo above. But, the soup that I love is “sai mai lou” or sago soup.
The tapioca “pearls” are the small pasta balls, and the large chunks are taro root, sweet potato, and other tubers.Deep fried taro root chips. Next to a delicious banh mi sandwich.
So what is sago? It’s a starch (almost 100 percent starch) derived from the sago plant.
This reminds of a thing I read about sago, another start. I recall reading in some tale of adventure about how the white explorer was not allowed to eat sago because according to the natives, the white man’s spirit was in the sago tree — and if he ate it, it would be cannibalism.
The reality is that I like comfort food. What is more comforting than carbohydrates and milk?
I had heard about this local diner in Hendersonville, North Carolina, the Dixie Diner. I wanted to go for breakfast. They are open every day except Christmas day. I heard it from the waitress so it must be true, despite what Google maps tells me. I heard that it was the kind of place where people go regularly. A true diner.
The counter.
The Dixie Diner is in the South and the word, ‘dixie’ is associated with the American South. To read some theories about this, click on this link. Driving to North Carolina, I saw at least three gigantic confederate flags. In many cities, the confederate names and monuments have been changed or removed.
The Dixie Diner.
When we entered the diner, there was no confederate flag, but there were American flags. There were other signs of the South but the decor was not too pimped out for tourists. There was one table of regular customers sitting there and they quickly got up and left when we entered. I think they could see that we would be rowdy out-of-towners.
Typical diner chairs.
The diner had a change in ownership in 2022 as the previous owner/long time waitress was murdered. We did not know about the dramatic history of this diner when we went there.
Typical chairs but clearly new.
We were greeted warmly by a waitress holding a pot of hot but weak coffee (American coffee is notoriously weak). The bowl in the middle of the table was brimming with small containers of jam, jelly, butter, and coffee creamer. We asked for milk. The other waitress skulked around pulling her face up whenever I smiled at her. Maybe she is shy.
Biscuit, sausage, home fries, gravy with sausage, bacon, corned beef hash, and eggs.
As we were in the South, we tried all the Southern specialties such as grits, corned beef hash, and biscuits. When I asked about the corned beef hash, I was told that the cook was very proud of his hash and that he had been up since 4 am making that. I asked about the home fried potatoes and asked if they were deep fried (which is what most city diners do these days) and was reassured that the cook was also proud of his potatoes and only fries them on the flat top. Phew.
Grits are made from treated maize.
The diner is quite large and apparently they also have a buffet. We ordered a la carte. We had a complicated order so it was good that there were no other customers. The food came out and it was typical diner food. Nothing grand and not piping hot but fine.
Corned beef hash made from corned beef.
By the time we were on coffee refills, other customers came in. As we took photos, one of the customers told us that we should meet the guy who’s photo was on the wall.
Famous local guy.
When we left, we were no longer hungry. It was an interesting experience eating at a local diner even if the prices were big city prices, with an omelet costing $9.95 and a short stack of pancakes costing $6.95. The breakfast platters were between $7-15 while a side of bacon cost $3.95.
It has been ten years since I left Bangladesh, but luckily I can once again taste the taste of home cooked authentic Bangladeshi food. Mahmuda is an excellent cook and she sells food from her home. You can also go to her place to experience a home cooked meal and learn about Bangladeshi culture. Mahmuda has a huge personality and speaks English with a feisty animated volume.
Bangladeshi food is spiced but not spicy as in hot on the Scoville scale. There is a lot of clove, cardamom, cinnamon, and mustard seed. There is regional food in Bangladesh and a whole type of cuisine, bhorta, that is sort of like “small plates, mezze, tapas, dim sum…” as in you get many small dishes and pay for what you eat. I hope that Mahmuda will make some of these in the future.
Shrimp in a coconut curry.
In Bangladesh, one eats with one’s right hand. I am not so good at that so I eat with a knife and fork. But you can try eating with your right hand if you want to. A meal at Mahmuda’s includes a starter, main, and dessert even though Bangladeshi food does not follow this concept.
The rice being cooked.
The curries in Bangladesh are not as soupy as they are in Britain or the US. Many of the Indian restaurants in the UK and the US are actually run by Bangladeshis. The Brits list curry —chicken tikka masala as their national dish. The first Indian cooks in the UK were from Sylhet in Bangladesh, in what was India. British curry with the heavy use of tomato puree and cream is an invention, probably in Glasgow, that helped adapt to the British love of gravy.
Dal, lentils.
I am not sure what the prices are but with a group, a meal was around $50 per person. One can also order food for pickup.
Oshwya Ghor translates to “home kitchen” in the local dialect of Barishal.
There was also dessert. The Bangladeshis love sweets but these were not too sweet. One was a rice pudding and the other a sort of blondie.
See the contrast between this restaurant and the stark white hallway.
One of the special things about living in the Washington, DC, area is Eden Center. Located about seven miles from DC, this shopping mall is like stepping into a whole different world. It is mainly Vietnamese restaurants, bubble tea shops, grocery stores, jewelers, banks, travel agents, and other businesses catering to the Vietnamese American community. Drive in under the red arch and the open strip mall stretches out on three sides.
In the shops, there are many wondrous things to try.
Most people stick to the restaurants, bakeries, bubble shops, and nail salons on surrounding the parking lot. But, go inside and wander down the hallways to find a travel to another time and place. No English spoken.
The game changer — mini crepe.
That said, Truong Tien, 6763 Wilson Boulevard, #6d, Falls Church, Ca 22044, the new restaurant may have changed all that. They have decorated their place to look like in old Saigon. Or at least in the mind’s eye. A Disney style Saigon.
A standard crepe served with utensils for you to cut and assemble.
A video about them went viral and now the gringos are flocking to them. The food is from Hue. They do have noodle soup but not pho. Even more of a game changer is that they make the classic crepe into three small taco style crepes. This is how this dish will become super popular and I imagine many other places will start to copy them.
Chillaxing at the club and charging the phone.
Another place that will get copied soon is TeaDM Plus, a boba shop located out on the parking lot. They have turned their place into a hangar disco club. The vibe is going out but it is safe for families and during the daytime. I can see many places changing to look like this place. It’s another alternative to hanging at a bar. Like a coffee shop but cooler. I foresee that non-alcoholic drinks will trend in 2024.
The vibe at Very Fresh Noodles is Hollywood Chinese.
We went on a quest. To find good Chinese food. We went out to Queens. We did not need to. We found it in Chelsea. We found really good freshly pulled noodles in Chelsea at Chelsea Market.
Chelsea Market is a whole city block at 7th 9th Avenue. It is a food hall, restaurant venue, market, shopping center, and television studio. All owned by Google. I just wish they would put more toilets around the place.
The line to order is about 15 minutes at this point.
The Very Fresh Noodle restaurant makes excellent food. EXCELLENT. Their Dan Dan noodles were spicy, numbing, complex, and classy. Their noodles with lamb in cumin sauce was also really good. We made the mistake of not thoroughly mixing the noodle dishes. The sauces are so complex and mostly at the bottom that one needs to mix it well to get the full aroma and array of the sauce.
The line to eat here is long but moves quickly. They have a few bar stools but otherwise, take the food outside or elsewhere. The thumping disco music, the red lights, and the neon signs all added to the clubby Oriental nightclub. The dishes are made in front of you and they call your number before the noodles go into the water. That way, you are ready when the noodles are ready.
Dan Dan Mien/noodles, cumin spiced lamb, and smashed cleaver cucumber salad. Make sure to toss well.
I would recommend Chelsea Market on a cold winter day. It is a magical world.
In a nod to Chinese/Asian new year (February 10, 2024), this article is about a Chinatown. The largest Chinatown is in Flushing, Queens, New York.
A sign in the dim sum house.
We went to eat good Chinese food and we went to Flushing to find it. It is a mere Subway ride (take the 7 from Midtown — also, you can pay by credit card at the Subway turnstile! No need for a ticket.) and get off at the Flushing-Main Street stop. Just down the street to Roosevelt and Prince streets, you will feel and hear the Chinatown atmosphere. Actually, the minute we got above ground, we heard people talking loudly in Mandarin Chinese. The smells made us realize that we were near some dumplings.
After doing some research, we decided (also because it was all last minute) to make our own food tour. There is a new mall called Tangram at the modern fancy end and then “hole in the wall” types of places like the famous White Bear. We headed for White Bear. The dumplings were good but can be had at other places for equal quality. The sauce was not spicy. Also, I felt a bit sad for the staff as they did not seem happy to have gained such fame.
White Bear is only take away. Dumplings with spicy sauce from White Bear.
We were only there for a short while and only had so many stomachs to fill so we ONLY managed to eat at four places in as many hours. After White Bear, we headed to a dim sum place called Nan Xiang Xiao Long Bao (as seen in the first photo at the top of the article). This place had the legit dumplings included their famous soup dumplings (xiao long bao).
Bamboo steamers.Multicolor dumplings are a modern take.
Luckily we got there before noon (yes, we already had the dumplings above before noon) so we only had to wait a few minutes for a table. This restaurant offered warm fresh soy milk which is apparently an authentic thing to have for breakfast. Warm soy milk and a cruller (deep fried dough).
Warm fresh soy milk and crullers is breakfast.The famous soup dumplings.
The soup dumplings were excellent although a touch too big for the spoon so there was no room on the spoon for the soup that ran out of the dumplings when poked with a chop stick. In some places in the world, the soup dumpling is so big that it is served with a straw. This is a gimmick. It is an amateur move to try and put the whole dumpling in one’s mouth. This is steamed dumpling and if you bite into it whole, it will explode like a magma filled volcano. I poked my dumpling over a bowl and drank the soup from there. There is a soy and ginger sauce for the soup dumpling but I loved the dumpling as it was. Inside was a lovely pork meatball juicy with soup.
Even here at Nan Xiang, there was some concession to being in the US. There were colorful dumplings made to please the eye, vegetarian dumplings, the scallion pancake made too sweet, and the cucumber salad not smashed (apparently the way I like Chinese cucumber salad is too garlicky — which is not authentic).
Notice our order ticket taped to our table?
As we ordered dishes, our ticket was taped to our table. Once we stopped ordering and had paid, we were told, gently, to leave, as there were long lines of people waiting for our table. So we left. But then went on to have dessert soup. I wrote about that in my article about my spirit starch. After a walk around Tangram mall, we went and had Peking Duck at Jiang Nan. Read about that in my article about that. It had gold leaf on it.
We ended our self made food tour of Mandarin Chinatown Flushing and headed back to Midtown New York. I do not think we ate anymore that day.
Oh, I tell a lie. We had boba tea. Which is a meal in of itself. More on that in another article.
